This climb starts just to the left of Just Another Pretty Face 5.10c. Lieback and face climb to the first and only bolt. It is a little spicy getting there, so place your small stuff in the entrance crack. Clip the bolt and jam the moderate crack (#1-2 Camalots) to the anchor on JAPF.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Sep 5, 2005 rating: 5.10b
Another great route on this east face. Some nice liebacking (not mandatory as one of my partners just face-climbed to the bolt), followed by either steep face climbing or wide stemming, followed by a nice sew-it-up hand crack. The traverse to the anchors will have your second cursing at you, if they don't like runout. But it is very easy.
Another belay option (standard bolts can be crowded as they're used by multiple lines) is to make a long & runout slab run (right and up) to the slung 4-foot horn atop Funky Bolt. No pro but the slab is low 5th class. Not sure if single rope would work for rapping off here though.
I made the first ascent of this route in 1968, with Jon Marsh, without the bolt.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 20, 2007
Pretty cool, Jeff! Bet it was a pretty different place back then.
Cheers!
By Joseph Kolnik From: Holladay, UT Aug 13, 2008 rating: 5.10a/b
Getting to the first bolt is a bit of a chore. Bring the small stuff if you are going to get this one without a stick clip. Above the small roof lies one of the finest hand size cracks in the area.
Agreed. Very good route with a somewhat tricky start. Above the bolt is a great moderate handcrack. Extra # 1,2 camalots helpful.
If you want to avoid the traverse to anchors, continue climbing up the crack to chains just left of the crack at about 110-115'. This is the best option, but you MUST have two ropes or a 70m cord to get down..
Parking Lot Rock
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