A good route with some good climbing, but some detractors as well. Climb up some indistinct and so-so rack with some gear placements to reach cleaner, more solid rock. This section is easy and pretty safe overall. Continue up and slightly right past a horizontal break (large cam possible) and then higher and more right towards a dark patch. A psychological crux (5.9, R) is here. Continue up and left to clip an old bolt and past the 'true crux' (anti-climactic) and on to the top of the rock... Mostly good climbing, mostly moderate.
Location
This route is on the face to the Right of Norma's Book and left of Batwings, just left of the rounded arete. Look hard to see a few bolts up there that may help you find the way.
Protection
A standard light rack, but don't plan on placing too much or it. I also got a large cam in (4.5 camalot) in a horizontal as advised by the book, but I'm not sure it was worth taking. There are 2 bolts on the route- one is below the crux, the other above. The higher one seems unneeded with the easier climbing and available gear, and the lower further from the crux than I would have preferred.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Aug 14, 2007 rating: 5.10- R
Two bolts. Can protect two different horizontal cracks using 3" & 1" cams the bulge (crux) is easier if you move slightly left. I'm not sure if that's cheating or not.
Parking Lot Rock
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