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Parking Lot Rock
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Spud meets Hammerhead 

5.11c

   

FA: Rhodes, OR Boyle, Barnes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 380 page views

Submitted By: Guy Humphrey on Jun 8, 2003


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Description 

This is the first sport route to the right of "Just another Pretty Face" on the East side of Parking lot rock. The climb trends right with some fun fiction moves with palming and underclings. The climb eases for a few moves. The crux is at the bulge above. It can be climbed on the left with poor feet. A fun variation goes to the right with interesting underclings. Moderate climbing leads to the anchor.


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By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.11c

Very nice line. Extreme friction and lip-chewing up through the first 4 bolts. Getting above the danger zone (bolt 2) took all my inner strength. Some reachy moves gets you above bolt 4 followed by easier climbing with one cool one-finger undercling (two, if your fingers are skinnier). Then the steep face. This seemed, not quite harder per se, but difficult in it's own right, at least the initial moves with the chalked pocket that you lunge from. Maybe my technique, or ability to see the moves was lacking here. But, after this committing move, the climbing eases to some steep edging that was a nice finish for a great route.

I personally felt the crux was that entire lower face. bolts1-4

By Blitzo
Oct 24, 2006

Thought it was more like 5.11a.