BETA PHOTO: 1) Delay of Game 2) Norma's Book 4) Batwings
Description
This climbs the obvious crack-in-a-chimney just south of Delay of Game. It starts as an easy chimney, but transitions into a nice crack/face climb (depending on your desire). Stemming, jamming, dropknees, face climbing is all utilized on this gem. It eats all sorts of protection. When one achieves the top head south (right) to the anchors.
Protection
A standard rack will suffice on this route. However, a 60 meter rope is recommended. 2 ropes are useful for the rappel, or you can hike to the south of the formation for 2 1-rope rappels.
A 5.6 in the old Bingam book and a 5.5 in the new book. Is it getting easier or could it be that he is mistaken. A 5.7+ might be a little high, (not worth disputing) but a 5.5, give me a break.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 4, 2004 rating: 5.6
Okay... how about a happy medium? 5.6 it is then... actually, I don't remember it being that hard, but it was fun. This climb will forever live in my memory, however, as during my lead, making my way up through the wide chimney... stemming and such... a rat stuck its face out and looked me in the eye, I nearly lept off as that was my gut reaction... I am not a fan of rats as it is, but to come face to face during a rock climb, I hope to never have happen again. Okay, 5.6+ if you see the rat!
No way is this route a 5.5! New leaders beware if you have a book that calls it a 5.5. I'd say it's a hard six. There are two fairly steep sections, one near the middle and one at the top. Still, u have a lot of positve holds and plenty of places for pro. A grreat climb if you have lead a couple pitches before.
Gotta agree...no 5.5....but probably an old school 5.6d..haha. I jumped on this years ago, as a new leader, and worked hard. All there though!
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 6, 2006
I think its rated at most, 5.6. I'd have no issue if the route was rated 5.5, though.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Jun 19, 2006 rating: 5.6
This was my wife's first trad lead. I thought it was an excellent route for the grade (I would definitely call it 5.6) - climbing is varied and maintains your interest.