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 Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
DescriptionA tall east/west facing buttress, Parking Lot Rock is home to 24 routes with the majority in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. This is a low approach cliff with potential for day-round climbing as the sun switches faces. As with most City of Rocks areas, most routes have some trad gear needed with 6 or so exceptions. There are a few clasics on this cliff. Delay of Game, Norma's Book, Batwings, Funky Bolt, and Just Another Pretty Face all deserve classic status. Getting ThereTake Emery Canyon Road off of City of Rocks Road, until you pass campsites 64 & 65. Park at the parking lot on the right. Parking Lot Rock is the obvious cliff closest to the Parking Lot (hence the name). The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Parking Lot Rock:
Norma's Book 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet
Delay of Game 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet
Batwings 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet
Funky Bolt 5.9 R Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet
Beauty and the Beast 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Thin Slice 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Tow Away Zone 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Batwings Direct 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Just Another Pretty Face 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Cairo 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Spud meets Hammerhead 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Parking Lot Rock
 Batwings climbs the crack 15-20 feet right of Norma's book. The initial crack protects well and climbs easy, until you reach the horizontal crack. Place a cam in this crack and angle or traverse right. Aim for the crack just left of the roof. This crack takes hand jams like it was designes for them, and then turns vertical. It still takes the hand jams for a distance then thins out into 2 thin cracks. Take your pick, or use both and pop up ...[more] Browse More Classics in ID |
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