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Strategic Defense 

Strategic Defense 

5.11c

   

FA: Dave Bingham & Mark Defournoux, 6/86
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 95 feet
Views: 1,320 page views

Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Jul 29, 2006


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Just before the crux. Photo by Chris Hash, Sept. ...


Description 

In the guidebook, Dave Bingham asks, "the best face climb in the City?"... find out for yourself! A slabby crux down low & a pumpy one up higher with an amazing variety of movement in a truly spectacular location.


Location 

The route is just left of the Crack of Dung (which is the first crack left of Crack of Doom). Look for bolts on the right side of a beautiful arete.


Protection 

A small stopper (#4 or #5) and blue and yellow TCUs are pretty key, unless you feel like running it out and facing big/injurious fall potential. The climb is predominantly bolted. Chain anchors on top. Careful lowering, it's a long one!



Comments on Strategic Defense Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Jul 30, 2006
rating: 5.11c PG13

What a route! Expect challenging climbing and excitement from the well spaced bolts. Bingham's latest book mentions that this is considered a "stiff" lead. I agree. I struggled up this route mentally and physically, but still rank it as one of the best climbs I've been on in the City. Definitely bring small wires and aliens/tcus unless you want even more spice! And watch out for the sting-in-the-tail above the last bolt.

By 426
Mar 21, 2007

Amazing position and climbing on this one...keep it together as it gets airy!

By Hayden Eatchel
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 10, 2009
rating: 5.11c/d

Amazing route ! Getting to the 2nd bolt is intense .. Really cool route which requires some mental stamina

By Bad Sock Puppet
From: Utah
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.11+

A hard hard climb for the grade. I did Fat Lip (.12a) an hour before this and Strategic Defense felt way harder for me and is definitely one of the scariest sport climbs I've done. The crux is between the first and second bolt which involves a barely featured section of slopey arete. A small slopey ledge (horizontal crack) provides a meager rest. Another hard move to get up to the large flake, and keep it together as it gets balancy up top despite the "featured look". A small 20ft runout will land you at the chains. If you want to protect the climb with gear, it will take a full set of C3's. A must do if you're feeling exceptionally brave.

By Johny A
From: Aurora . CO
Feb 2, 2010

Did this one in 97. Kicked draw OFF 1st bolt above horizontal. WOW. Took getting to the next bolt VERY seriously. Remember the bottom being more tech than the top. Part slab- part sport. Def a proud lead for any 11 climber.