Just before the crux. Photo by Chris Hash, Sept. ...
Description
In the guidebook, Dave Bingham asks, "the best face climb in the City?"... find out for yourself! A slabby crux down low & a pumpy one up higher with an amazing variety of movement in a truly spectacular location.
Location
The route is just left of the Crack of Dung (which is the first crack left of Crack of Doom). Look for bolts on the right side of a beautiful arete.
Protection
A small stopper (#4 or #5) and blue and yellow TCUs are pretty key, unless you feel like running it out and facing big/injurious fall potential. The climb is predominantly bolted. Chain anchors on top. Careful lowering, it's a long one!
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jul 30, 2006 rating: 5.11c PG13
What a route! Expect challenging climbing and excitement from the well spaced bolts. Bingham's latest book mentions that this is considered a "stiff" lead. I agree. I struggled up this route mentally and physically, but still rank it as one of the best climbs I've been on in the City. Definitely bring small wires and aliens/tcus unless you want even more spice! And watch out for the sting-in-the-tail above the last bolt.
Amazing position and climbing on this one...keep it together as it gets airy!
By Hayden Eatchel From: Salt Lake City, Utah Aug 10, 2009 rating: 5.11c/d
Amazing route ! Getting to the 2nd bolt is intense .. Really cool route which requires some mental stamina
By Bad Sock Puppet From: With the climbing Gods Sep 13, 2009 rating: 5.11+
A hard hard climb for the grade. I did Fat Lip (.12a) an hour before this and Strategic Defense felt way harder for me and is definitely one of the scariest sport climbs I've done. The crux is between the first and second bolt which involves a barely featured section of slopey arete. A small slopey ledge (horizontal crack) provides a meager rest. Another hard move to get up to the large flake, and keep it together as it gets balancy up top despite the "featured look". A small 20ft runout will land you at the chains. If you want to protect the climb with gear, it will take a full set of C3's. A must do if you're feeling exceptionally brave.
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