This is the first sport climb to the right of Crack of Doom. This is a tough send at 5.11b. I saw a guy warm up on Stategic Defense and onsight Crack of Doom, but he got shut down on this climb. Go figure...
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jul 30, 2006
The book says the first, high clip is easy. I disagree... a fall from the move to get under the bolt would result in serious injury, and it is not easy. On the ledge to the right of the bolt I found a convenient stick for stick-clipping - apparently I'm not the first to find this clip too much to swallow.
Once engaged on the arete, expect challenging, balancey climbing - particularly the opening moves. This is a very difficult onsight for the grade (I didn't get it), but it is definitely easier and less scary then Strategic Defense! Two ledges enroute offer convenient rests.
A worthy tick if you're in the neighborhood!
Gear: 5 bolts. A #0.5 Camalot could be useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, and a larger nut helps protect the first clip.
Andy is right about the bolts, we did this thing when it was rated 11a (iirc) and it is a stiffy even for b.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 1, 2007 rating: 5.11b
I thought it was no harder than Fire Water, the other 11b I did there. The "crux" was not really that bad (flashed that, second route ever at the city, warming up). I also think the difficulty of the first climp was reach dependent, as I had no issue with my albatros arms. However, the second clip is on small holds flash-pumped me out. I ended up hanging from the jugs higher on the route!
Morning Glory Spire
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