This route begins just to the left of Strategic Defense 5.11c. The opening moves follow a left facing dihedral and are tough to stop and place gear.
A rest is had before a 1 inch crack, follow this crack and traverse to the left. Work out some thin gear in the cracks and setup for the traverse back to the right.
This is where the fun begins. Lieback the flake, and work hard to protect yourself. The gear can be good, but it is pumpy to place. Race to the ledge before your hands open up on their own. Traverse to the right and rap on the S.D. anchors.
An experienced City climber suggested this route was more like 5.11a before we did it, and I wouldn't argue. With bolts it would be a cruise, but placing the pro requires an ever-evolving battle between the rising pump and the desire for security. Many will need to punch it to reach the jugs near the top, and then they'll wish those jugs were bigger. Great stuff!
Morning Glory Spire
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