This is "the" 5.11 crack climb at the City. It is found 35ft to right of the start of Skyline 5.8.
The start is protected by a fixed pin, which can be stick clipped. A fixed nut has remained in place about 2 feet above the pin for the last couple years. These 2 pieces protect the opening crux moves very well.
Start on the shelf to the left and traverse into the crack. Grab the correct holds and these moves are only 5.11a. Work the face on the right and get established in the thin finger crack. Thin crack and stem moves will lead you to a rest jam at the roof.
The second crux is moving through the OW pod right above the roof. (#3.5 Camalot and poor feet) A continuous slightly overhanging hand crack leads to a 2 bolt anchor.
Protection
Handful of TCUs, Ballnuts, and nuts for the first half of the route. #1-3.5 Camalots for the second half of the route.
By Chris Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.11c
Stick clip the pin, then it's bascially a boulder problem into the crack which slowly widens. Make sure to take some big pieces for up high; when I did this a single #3 Camalot was the biggest piece I had, which made me feel a bit unprepared.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jul 30, 2006
The bottom moves are just plain hard - and seem to get harder each time I do it. I've yet to get the bottom clean. Definitely bring a good helping of #2 and #3 Camalots with one #4 Camalot for the pod. The finger crack protects well with small cams from a green C3 (blue Alien?) to #0.5 Camalot. The bottom is the crux - obviously - but the top delivers a pump that will be remembered.
Since I haven't climbed much at the City, this is a qualified endorsement, but of the routes I have done there, Crack of Doom is easily my favorite. Great gear, a much easier than it looks (impossible) boulder start, followed by a few feet of hard thin crack sets you up for 40' of woo-hoo hands to OW crack climbing on immaculate, smooth sided granite.
Experienced crack climbers will likely find the bouldery moves at the start about two number grades harder than the OW "2nd crux".
An old style (purple or black) #4 Camalot is too large for the OW, a #4 Friend works better. You could also get by w/ 2 #3 Camalots.
Beta Alert: I went lower than the guy doing the left handed pinch in one of the photos. Taking the low road, a hard to see crystal crimp on the right arete (above the right hand pinch) was crucial.
Morning Glory Spire
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