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DescriptionThis spire sits SSE of Parking Lot Rock, and has 15 routes up it's 100 foot height. The climbs are on the NW to SW faces with some exception (unnamed chimney route).They range in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12c, with unnamed chimney route (5.5) and Veal Cage (unknown former 5.12a due to a broken key hold) being the exceptions. Skyline, Strategic Defense, Power Tools, and Crack of Doom all are classics. Getting TherePark at the parking lot on the right just past campsites 64 and 65, and take the trail towards Parking Lot Rock, turning south when you get the chance. As you cut throught the divide of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire, angle right and either scramble up the ledge system for the NW side or head to the SW side. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Morning Glory Spire:
Skyline 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
(Incisor) Chimney 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Reach for the Sky 5.10b R Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Fall Line 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Morning Glory 5.10c/d Sport, 3 pitches, 250 feet
Brown Flake 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Crack of Doom 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Strategic Defense 5.11c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet
Featured Route For Morning Glory Spire
Crack of Doom 5.11c ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire
This is "the" 5.11 crack climb at the City. It is found 35ft to right of the start of Skyline 5.8. The start is protected by a fixed pin, which can be stick clipped. A fixed nut has remained in place about 2 feet above the pin for the last couple years. These 2 pieces protect the opening crux moves very well. Start on the shelf to the left and traverse into the crack. Grab the correct holds and these moves are only 5.11a. Work the face on th...[more] Browse More Classics in ID
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