Morning Glory Spire

BETA PHOTO: Morning Glory Spire from the Road.

Description 

This spire sits SSE of Parking Lot Rock, and has 15 routes up it's 100 foot height. The climbs are on the NW to SW faces with some exception (unnamed chimney route).They range in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12c, with unnamed chimney route (5.5) and Veal Cage (unknown former 5.12a due to a broken key hold) being the exceptions. Skyline, Strategic Defense, Power Tools, and Crack of Doom all are classics.

Getting There 

Park at the parking lot on the right just past campsites 64 and 65, and take the trail towards Parking Lot Rock, turning south when you get the chance. As you cut throught the divide of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire, angle right and either scramble up the ledge system for the NW side or head to the SW side.

The Classics

Featured Route For Morning Glory Spire

Crack of Doom 5.11c  ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire

This is "the" 5.11 crack climb at the City. It is found 35ft to right of the start of Skyline 5.8. The start is protected by a fixed pin, which can be stick clipped. A fixed nut has remained in place about 2 feet above the pin for the last couple years. These 2 pieces protect the opening crux moves very well. Start on the shelf to the left and traverse into the crack. Grab the correct holds and these moves are only 5.11a. Work the face on th...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

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Sunset over Morning Glory Spire

Panorama view from the top of Morning Glory Spire.