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Double Cracks 

5.10a

   

FA: Greg Lowe
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 711 page views

Submitted By: Dave Clawson on Jul 1, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Double Cracks


Description 

Double Cracks is located on the north end of the formation. It starts off with two parallel, strenuous, steep and slippery finger cracks. After this the angle eases and some stemming and jamming with a hand hold thrown in here and there gets one to the top.


Protection 

Standard rack works, TCUs for the start. There are fixed anchors at the top.



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Nearing the top of a great route and challenging lead!

Nearing the top of a great route and challenging l...


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By Rob T
Jul 12, 2006
rating: 5.10a

There are anchors at the top to get down, but they are inconveniently located for top-roping. The anchor is 2 metolius rap hangers about 20' up and climbers right from the end of the technical difficulties. Probably best to bring the second up, then rap.

By Nick Stayner
From: Tuolumne Meadows, CA
Jul 29, 2006
rating: 5.10c

I'm all for a bit of sandbagging, but after doing this route multiple times, both on TR and lead, I feel that the moves are definitely harder than .10a! Does anyone really think this is "just as easy" as Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice?
AWESOME route!
Also, there's an old bolt immediately right of the top of the crack. It makes a great directional.

By Rob T
Jul 31, 2006
rating: 5.10a

The only way i could see it being harder is if you don't fit into the initial chimney. after leaving the deck, i can get a no hands rest anywhere up to the hand crack just by wedging my torso in there.

By Wavey
From: Idaho Falls, ID
Feb 6, 2007

tough for bigger people on lead placing gear. the wedge is solid, but when you try to squeeze a cam in its not so secure.

By bbrock
From: Al
Jun 5, 2007

Back in the day my buddy use to down climb this route to get off the top. Insane!!! This route also makes an excellent solo as the crux is right off the ground.

By wilcox510
Aug 20, 2007

This is a great route, but to me it seems much more difficult than either Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice (two of the area classic 10a cracks). The crux is short, but both times I've lead this is kind of worked me.

By Nate Adams
Aug 20, 2007

Wow! This popped up as a featured route and jolted me back 20 years. This was my second (ever) lead, after a bolted 5.7 at Dragons Back in Montana. I'm happy to say I did it clean, but it took an eternity to clip into the rings on slings and rap. I had a serious case of newbie nerves at the anchors, but man, was I psyched!!!!