Z-Cracks is on the Northeast side of King of the Throne. It is aptly named, as the crack forms some form of a Z. The climb is only about 50 feet in length. Jam up and slightly left, then up a steep right facing dihedral, then exit left in a bulging hand crack (the crux). After pulling the hand crack, set an anchor from large cams.
There is a set of fixed anchors which rap off the opposite side of the formation. Only one rope needed.
Protection
Standard rack - mainly hand sized pieces. Bigger stuff needed for an anchor (3 or 3.5 camalots).
The classic City Testpiece for 5.9!!! (yeah right). Don't let the size fool you...this one is a full on street fight, and a great one to test your mettle on, and it delivers in 50 feet. Get in there Marine!!!!!
Did it today; sew'd it up pretty well. It is all there and demands use of all climbing techniques known to man thus far (except offwidths) which is rad for something which is fairly short. I used three #1's and two #2's and built the anchor out of three #4's. Gear is bomber the whole way. Great climb!!
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 1, 2007 rating: 5.9
Great climb despite being short. Lots of interesting technique, but felt secure and fun. Stem, stem, stem!
This was my first gear lead ever. My friend said "you're ready to lead, I know this great 5.7, let's go". After shaking, scratching, and clawing my way to the top, he followed, got up to me and said "you'll do for a partner", and then walked off.
King on The Throne
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