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Rye Crisp 
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Strawberry Jam 
Wheat Thin 

Rye Crisp 

5.8

   

FA: Steinfell Club
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 2,266 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 25, 2004


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Tony on the upper flake, just before the T-storms ...


Description 

This climbs the obvious lower and then upper flakes that face the left. These jagged shards of granite beg to be enjoyed. If you have the gear, do not go home without doing this route. Consistent, long and varied. Laybacks hand-stacks, foot stacks, finger jams. BEEEE-you-tiful


Protection 

Large gear is neccesary on this route. #4 cams are needed. a 60 meter rope is required for the rap. Traverse to the anchors for Just Say No, or use 2 ropes.



Add Photo Photos of Rye Crisp
Tony on the lower flake.

Tony on the lower flake.

Kelly top roping the flake of death.

Kelly top roping the flake of death.

Kelly lookin' strong

Kelly lookin' strong

Leading death Flake of Rye Crisp

Leading death Flake of Rye Crisp

Unknown climber nearing the top of Rye Crisp.

Unknown climber nearing the top of Rye Crisp.

My friend Austin decided to solo up this after climbing it the evening prior. A great route with a super fun and huge flake all the way up.

My friend Austin decided to solo up this after cli...

Rye Crisp

Rye Crisp

Leading Rye Crisp

Leading Rye Crisp


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By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 4, 2004

5 minute approach, Wheat thin yards away... if you are a moderate leader do not pass this up. Classic is an understatement, it is of the highest quality. That said, it is intimidating looking up at it from the ground (if you are a 5.8 leader), but fear not, it is solid climbing, great movement over rock.

By ROC
Aug 13, 2004

Very fun climb. Having said that I would be VERY, VERY HESITANT about doing this one again as to the dubious nature of the entire flake system. The entire thing is hollow and vibrates terriblely when you knock on it. The first half seems pretty solid, but the upper half seemed very suspect to me. How long till that thing comes down? "5 minutes or 5 thousand years?" If it should cut loose, you and your belayer are toast. ENJOY!!!

By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 10, 2005
rating: 5.8

This flake is bomber, I didn't find it freaky at all. If you want to see the definition of thin scary flake, check out Arm and Hammer in Bells Canyon!

Really great route!

By Casey Jones
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 9, 2006

One of my first trad leads. Great climb, good pro. God, I have to get back to the City!!!

By Armin
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 16, 2006

Amazing route, my wife and I made a stop to the "city" on our rock n road honeymoon this past summer, and we did this route, I'm a 5.8 leader and at first was intimidated as mentioned earlier, but then cruised this route. Take a good selection of large cams up to #5 BD and long slings.

By koji t
Jul 17, 2006

awesome. a must-do.

By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Feb 12, 2007

Thoroughly enjoyed this climb. Took a number 4 camalot and kept trying to save it for further up the climb. Climbed the whole thing without using the number 4 and felt very well protected. There are some bomber nut placements as the flake ends and you get up towards the wider section near the top of the climb.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
May 15, 2007

I found the bottom flake moves to be the crux, a #4 seemed like the only thing to protect that well with (I didn't have one). I managed to protect the rest fine with a #2 and #3.

By Robert Richardson
Nov 25, 2007
rating: 5.8

This climb f*cking rules!

By Ben2
From: Bend, OR
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.8

Great climb, protects well. If you feel the need to sew it up however, make sure you bring plenty of long runners or you will be in pain towards the top.