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Beware of Nesting Egos 

5.11b PG13

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 747 page views

Submitted By: Jeff Giddings on Jun 23, 2006


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The gear before the first bolt on the face is of p...


Description 

This is an incredible mixed route to the right of The Pygmees got stoned. It has three widely spaced bolts but you will also need a good assortment of gear. It is sustained with three pretty difficult sections with the most difficult of the three being at the end. Great movement and beautiful features the whole way. I think this route is a classic and one of the best I've done at the city.


Location 

Starts right of the pygmees got stoned. There is an obvious flake about 15 feet up that you undercling and jam around the left side of to get onto the face. There are three bolts connecting smaller finger cracks on the upper wall.


Protection 

3 bolts. A #2 and #3 Camalot for the beginning crack. A full set of stoppers and smaller cams up to a 0.5 Camalot for the upper sections between the bolts. Fixed anchor at top which is set back over a lip making a top rope run a little rough, best to sling it out for the TR then rap when done.



Add Photo Photos of Beware of Nesting Egos
The interesting finger crack feature in the middle of the route...

The interesting finger crack feature in the middle...

The final crux moves to a jug...

The final crux moves to a jug...

Climber on Beware of Nesting Egos.

Climber on Beware of Nesting Egos.

A nice buttshot of Ben Folsom starting up Beware of Nesting Egos.

A nice buttshot of Ben Folsom starting up Beware o...

Ben Folsom near the top of Beware of Nesting Egos.

Ben Folsom near the top of Beware of Nesting Egos.


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By Guy Humphrey
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 20, 2006
rating: 5.11b PG13

This may be the best mixed route at the City. This route has a little bit of everything from roof moves, scary traverses, runout face climbing, a fun finger crack, and a pumpy finish.

There are some large runouts (~15ft) above good gear. Bring gear up to a .75 camalot for the upper section, while a #2,3, and 3.5 will protect the roof section.

By Ben Folsom
Aug 21, 2007

This is a fantastic route! Good gear, a little bit hard to read, and super fun! I did this for the first time last weekend and it will for sure be one I go back to from time to time.