Beware of Nesting Egos 

FA:  Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 90 feet Views: 1,112 page views Submitted By: Jeff G. on Jun 23, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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The gear before the first bolt on the face is of p...

Description 

This is an incredible mixed route to the right of The Pygmees got stoned. It has three widely spaced bolts but you will also need a good assortment of gear. It is sustained with three pretty difficult sections with the most difficult of the three being at the end. Great movement and beautiful features the whole way. I think this route is a classic and one of the best I've done at the city.

Location 

Starts right of the pygmees got stoned. There is an obvious flake about 15 feet up that you undercling and jam around the left side of to get onto the face. There are three bolts connecting smaller finger cracks on the upper wall.

Protection 

3 bolts. A #2 and #3 Camalot for the beginning crack. A full set of stoppers and smaller cams up to a 0.5 Camalot for the upper sections between the bolts. Fixed anchor at top which is set back over a lip making a top rope run a little rough, best to sling it out for the TR then rap when done.

Photos of Beware of Nesting Egos Slideshow

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The interesting finger crack feature in the middle...	The final crux moves to a jug...	Climber on Beware of Nesting Egos.
A nice buttshot of Ben Folsom starting up Beware o...	Ben Folsom near the top of Beware of Nesting Egos.