This is one of the top three 5.11 trad climbs at the City. The name is very fitting. The crux is protected by a #2 Lowe ball. Gear larger than 1/4 inch is not had until way after the crux.
Start by face climbing past a bolt. (Stick clip?) Fire in some small bomber nuts, and stand up on the small ledge. Place you #2 ballnut which can be backed up with a #2 RP a little lower. A #.2 Camalot can be placed right after the crux lieback moves. Thin pro, tough placements, and pumpy moves lead to a rest ledge. Mid 5.10 moves lead through a finger crack and small roof. Rap 90ft from a 2 bolt anchor.
Try not too have too much terror in tiny town.
Protection
Tiny to .5 inch for the first half, large nuts and a #2 Camalot for the final section
Don't worry if you dont have a ball nut. its not needed. actually the gear is bomber nuts for the most part. although it looks like it will eat up small cams actually small to medium wires are great. right after the lay back are bomber yellow and blue tcus and # 10 stopper placements. Right after the beginning pumpy moves, great hb # 5 and yellow TCU.
What a fantastic and sustained route! The only tiny gear I needed was a #5 BD stopper part way up the crack. I didn't place any brass although a #4 HB might protect the start if you don't want to stick clip the bolt. The crack takes great stoppers up to a #13 BD and cams .4 - 2.5 inches with extras in .5 inch range.
This route is amazing and one of the best crack climbs I've done at the city. I stick clipped the bolt then placed some small HB offsets at the beginning of the crack, I think a #4 and a #5. I didn't use anything bigger than a .75 Camalot, but you may be able to use a #1 Camalot near the top.
By Jeremy Schlick From: Flagstaff, AZ May 7, 2008 rating: 5.11a
A number of years back, on my first visit to the City, I watched as we drove in, a good friend of mine get carted out in an ambulence with various broken bones. Upset though I was, my buddy Dan insisted on clearing our heads with a bit of climbing, the cure all, even to climbing accidents. So the tequila came out, and if this wasn't the first route I lead, it was the second. An amazing pitch, and I am pretty sure I thought the gear was good, though a bit exciting.
Easier than the other good 11a's at the city(larry's annihilation, interceptor, scar tissue)
By Bad Sock Puppet From: With the climbing Gods Sep 13, 2009 rating: 5.11-
This one made Crack of Doom feel like a breeze. Jumped on it with a belly full of hot pizza and no warmup. Almost lost my pizza half way up it's that tough! All the gear was actually better than I originally thought it would be. The crack swallows all sorts of small cams and stoppers. The beginning is easier than it looks but it's smart to stickclip the bolt since a fall would most definitely break something. The crux is moving off the pedestal into the first 10ft of crack, however the crack slowly gets better all the way to the main ledge, but you've got to work to get there. After that it's a walk in the park to the chains.
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