Scream Machine AKA Coffee and Cornflakes 

When did "Coffee and Corflakes" become scream machine?

I used the name as specified in the Caldarone book. If I got it wrong, or Caldarone is wrong lets get it fixed.

I went and looked it up again. According to Calderone's book, Coffee and Cornflakes is the unbolted route directly left of Scream Machine. However, as I meantioned before, perhaps he was in error.

3 bolts to the anchor. The lower unprotected face is easy, so don't let that dissuade you, as the upper face is fantastic, pumpy, and continuous.

Looking at the Bingham guide book, it states that Coffee and Cornflakes was originally a no-pro route just left. So for historical accuracy I will consolidate the two "route postings" together, and put an AKA in.

The lower half of the route has no protection, but is easy 5.6 moves. A ledge separates the lower and upper half. The upper half is protected by four bolts. If you blow it clipping the second bolt there is a good chance that you will deck on the midway ledge. However, the crux is considered between the second and third bolts. Solid two bolt chain anchor on top.

Scream Machine is the last bolt route to the right, about 100 feet, of Colossus on the north west side of Bath rock. Start up the pocketed lower 5.6 portion of the route to a bowl shaped ledge before the 5.10 portion of the climb. Reach high and clip the first bolt. The route then becomes slightly overhung as you reach for solid holds to the right of the bolts. After the third clip the angle becomes positive and the difficulty eases.

I don't get why my original posting was overwritten by Guy's and degraded to a comment. The Calderone guide calls the route I posted "Scream Machine" and according to Nathan so does the Bigham guide. From these two sources I can only assume that "Coffee and Cornflakes" is the gear route to the left. It seems that the only one stating that these are the same two routes is "Anonymous Coward". What gives?

On the subject of this route being R rated. I was fortunate that I pulled the cord through and one of my partners had already slung a horn on the ledge above allowing me to clip it. However, I didn't feel that getting there was all that difficult and the business portion of the route is further up on the steep headwall.

Optional slung horn, 3 bolts and chain anchors using positive rock the entire way.

Excellent!

Susan

Actually, I think its R rated because if you blow the clip at the second bolt and fall, you'd probably smack the ledge below. I place a cam or two above the first bolt (to the left in the horizontal crack) which helps protect the semi cruxy moves to the second bolt. Used to be a gear lead by leaning left and milking the cracks for pro. Great route. Short but stiff and sweet.

Possible to place a #2 camalot in the hole below the first bolt on the midway ledge. For the faint at heart....