Located on the back side of Bath Rock, just left of Colossus. Classic Crack Climbing! Climb the obvious crack in the large open book. Move Left at the crux 70' up to keep it 5.9. Straight up might be slightly harder.
Edit: Apparently I got this wrong, don't go left or you will be cheating. Although going left is a lot of fun.
Protection
Standard City of Rocks Rack. Nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot.
Fun lead for a reacquaintance of the City. Good gear, and good climbing. A #2 Camalot protects the straight up version perfectly. Straight-up may seem harder than 5.9 due to the wideness of the crack, but all wide cracks seem harder than they are, unless that is your thing. To me the wide version was too short to even climb like a wide crack. One secure hand jam way high, and then swing your legs high and you are there. Exposed feeling, but all there.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Aug 14, 2007 rating: 5.9
Great route! Lower section takes great sm-med nuts. Bring some larger cams 3-4" for the larger pods that are coming. 2.5" cam will protect direct slot finish which is a bit of a grunt for it's less than 2 feet. Chain Anchors.
Route protects well with nuts. I concur that crux move out left is easier than the rated 5.9.
By Judson Widner From: Park City, Ut. Sep 20, 2009 rating: 5.9
This route gets my vote for best 5.9 trad route at the city. Cool stemming with a jam crux! Ditto previous comments, and this route protects really well.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
