The route is the highest route in the gully on the west side of Castle Rock. Approach from the south side trails. The one is a real gem!!!
Follow a clean plate of patina with very thin edges. Hard mantles, crimping, and high steps lead up and left to a set of anchors. One of the best routes on the west side.
Protection
Draws and maybe a small cam before the first bolt...
Very good route with excellent rock. My 10d rating is based on my height (6'). We watched a 5'4" climber barely be able to reach the key crimp holds on this route and it was definitely harder for him. He thought it was easily 11a. To my spouse(5'10") and I, it seemed a little bit easier than Milk Toast(North Wall) given 10d(felt 11a) and to us it felt in the 10d range. The thin, crisp edges on this route gave it a more secure feeling than the sketchy holds at the start of Milk Toast.
The left traverse at the end is a little odd but I think adds some interesting character to the route. The leftward lean to the routes on the upper part of this side of the gully was probably unfortunate(the 15' distance limit at Castle forced routes left after the "first" one was done) but at least in this case, I think the traverse ending is at least as good as the other possible straight up ending (the thin finish to Blind Pig just above it).
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Sep 7, 2008 rating: 5.11a
Stellar route! From below the face looks so blank and improbable but once you get up there and commit to the tiny edges, it goes. Great stuff Nathan!
Hostess Gully aka Tasteful Wall
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