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Beef Butte Bracksiek's Pillar Castle Rock Chamber of secrets Competition Rock, East Side Competition Rock, North Side Competition Wall, South Side Fence Line Rock Flaring chosswidth tower Heffalump Johnny Cash Memorial Rock Poultry Pillar Sailer Wall Shark's Fin Rock Sweet 17 Tidal Wave Tiny Town Rocks |
DescriptionCastle Rocks was opened to the public in May of 2003. It is a great addition to climbing community while visiting the City of Rocks. The Castle Rocks area is open to new bolted routes through a Climbing Management Plan. There is currently a good relationship between climbers and the park staff. Please try and keep this good relationship going. There is a good mix of trad and sport routes. The fixed gear must conform to the standards of the climbing management plan. Getting ThereCastle Rocks is located about 2 miles from City of Rocks outside the town of Almo. A road just North of Almo leads to the west for about 2 miles to the park entrance. I believe there is currently a small fee for day climbing. The approcahes to the climbs are longer than for City of Rocks. The approaches are between 20-90 minutes for the majority of the climbs. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rocks State Park:
Little Time 5.6 Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet Castle Rock : South Side
Big Time 5.7 Sport, 400 feet Castle Rock : South Side
Zinger 5.8 Sport, 3 pitches, 290 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...
Between Heaven and Earth 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...
Red Rib 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 195 feet Castle Rock : Southwest Side
Crimson Arete 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Castle Rock : East Face
Shock and Awe 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Castle Rock : West Buttress
Mantle Dynamics 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Competition Rock, East Side
Twinkie 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...
Ho Ho 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...
Honeymoon in Almo 5.11a Sport, 100 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...
Featured Route For Castle Rocks State Park
Red Rib 5.10a ID : Castle Rocks State Park : ... : Southwest Side
Red Rib is a long, beautiful, single pitch route up the SW ridge of Castle Rock. Great position and good exposure are it's strongest points. The crux is right off the ground but the climbing remains interesting and in the 5.9/10- range for most of the first ~150'. From here, it's an easier romp to the anchors.This route is a full 60 meter rope length. ...[more] Browse More Classics in ID |