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Sunset over Morning Glory Spire

Famous Potatoes 

Yup, Idaho is famous for the spuds. Somewhere I heard that Idaho supplies more than 70% of the potatoes to McDonalds. Simplot, an ag company, basically owns Idaho.

But among all those future tator tots lies some climbing.

City of Rocks and its neighbor, Castle Rocks, are the main destinations for out-of-state climbers. Both feature fantastic cragging in a beautiful setting.

Also of interest are The Sawtooth Range near Stanley, the limestome climbing near Riggins, and the basalt climbing of Massacre Rocks near American Falls.

Climbing Season

Weather station 16.7 miles from here

1,766 Total Routes

['4 Stars',139],['3 Stars',683],['2 Stars',582],['1 Star',206],['Bomb',8]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Idaho:
Wheat Thin   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East
Adolescent Homo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Breadloaves : Decadent Wall
Intruding Dike   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Breadloaves : Bloody Fingers Corridor
Columbian Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East
Lost Arrow   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   City of Rocks : Lost Arrow Spire
Theater of Shadows   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 4 pitches, 500'   City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome
Too Much Fun   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 150'   City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock
Open Book   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'   The Sawtooth Range : Finger of Fate
Skyline   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire
Rye Crisp   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East
Batwings   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West
Private Idaho   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West
Mountaineer's Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
Tribal Boundaries   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   City of Rocks : Flaming Rock
Thin Slice   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas...
Bloody Fingers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers
Colossus   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West
Direct Beckey   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches   The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
She's the Bosch   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 120'   Window Rock : Window Rock - West
Crack of Doom   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire
Browse More Classics in Idaho

Featured Route For Idaho
The crux..

Terror of Tiny Town 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch
This is one of the top three 5.11 trad climbs at the City. The name is very fitting. The crux is protected by a #2 Lowe ball. Gear larger than 1/4 inch is not had until way after the crux. Start by face climbing past a bolt. (Stick clip?) Fire in some small bomber nuts, and stand up on the small ledge. Place you #2 ballnut which can be backed up with a #2 RP a little lower. A #.2 Camalot can be placed right after the crux lieback moves. Thin pro, tough placements,...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Photos of Idaho Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing at Chimney Rock-Climber, Dave Evans.
Climbing at Chimney Rock-Climber, Dave Evans.
Beautiful Idaho
Beautiful Idaho
Welcome to Idaho!
Welcome to Idaho!
Top secret lava tube in the desert.
Top secret lava tube in the desert.
Kyle T atop Mt. Borah after climbing the N. Face (...
Kyle T atop Mt. Borah after climbing the N. Face (...
Cam Burns en route to Chimney Rock, Idaho, in 1991...
Cam Burns en route to Chimney Rock, Idaho, in 1991...

Comments on Idaho Add Comment
Show which comments
By grk10vq
Nov 23, 2011
The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Burley, Idaho Field Office is proposing a climbing ban on its property at Massacre Rocks and making its current climbing ban at Castle Rocks permanent due to fears that climbing could potentially have negative impacts on cultural resources at each location.

The Access Fund is working with the Boise Climbers Association, the Eastern Idaho Climbers Coalition, members of Idaho's Congressional Delegation, the local BLM, and other concerned stakeholders to find a reasonable compromise that allows climbing and protects valuable culture resources.

Access fund has made an easy-to-use template for emailing the BLM and a few other important recipients.
Cut and paste, add your own words, just be heard!

Save Castle and Massacre Rocks Letter
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 1, 2011
Here is copy of my letter- feel free to alter it a bit and get your voice heard!

Dear Friend,

As a long time outdoor enthusiast and rock climber I have been visiting and climbing at Massacre Rocks for the past decade. It is a relatively quiet, albeit excellent area for rock climbing. The individuals that equipped the climbing routes here invested countless hours and dollars into developing this area in to a regional treasure. Massacre hosts more basalt sport climbs than any other single destination in the world, as far as I'm aware. The unique features, geologic setting, and it's historical nature make it a favorite for climbers of all abilities. Please realize that there is a movement within our climbing commu nities to bring awareness to listing of Massacre on the National Register and the 30-day comment period. Please realize that I speak for at least hundreds of users in a multi-state area (Idaho, Utah, Wyoming, Montana et al.), even if their voices are not to be heard in this short 30 day time-frame. My request is that Massacre remain open to the climbers and other user groups that cherish it.

Thank you for your time and consideration.


Brad Heller
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