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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A good climb with some interesting flake climbing. The top half is more typical of Indian Creek- being a shallow corner with a great hand-jams section.
Start up the right edge of a huge flake, perhaps 15 meters tall. IT is shaped somewhat abstractly like the state of Idaho, if you can imagine its proportion stretched in the north-to-south direction a few times over. Step left at the top of the flake and climb a shallow right-facing corner to the top, to a 2-bolt anchor just below a roof.
A single 70M rope will get you down with a few feet to spare.
This route is as far east on the 2nd Meat Wall's South Side as you go- at the end of the trail and just aside a medium-large Juniper. A Plaque gives the name and grade at 5.10-. It is 10 meters left of Potato, which is in the Bloom guide.
A few thin spots in the flake down low make caution advisable while choosing gear placements, but there are certainly safe and valid options. Just be careful. Also take some slings- the flake undulates and the second half of the climb is behind a notch. Drag could be bad.
Take a mix of cams with a few extra of 3-3.5" for the top 1/2.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the flake. Climber is nearing the ancho...
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
The name on the plaque at the base as of 3/11/07 is Meat Hucker and the grade given is 5.10-. Several of us felt the green camalot layback start was 5.10. It's definitely committing, as you are placing gear behind a sandstone flake, which is reasonably solid, but it's still a sandstone flake. Fun climb, worth doing if you visit this wall.