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 ADVANCED
Reynolds Hill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 
Barf Bucket Traverse T 
Black Starr Chimney T,TR 
Bloodletting T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Climbs of Passion Exit T 
Coffee Grinder T 
Connecticut Yankee T 
Cosmic Debris T 
Fat Man's Demise T 
Finger Grinder T 
Fist Crack, The T 
Glenda's Chimney T 
Howling T 
Hug Jombo T 
Hung Like a Horse T 
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 
K.P. T 
Klink T 
Labyrinth T 
Maiden T 
Matron T 
Moor's Crossing T 
Peach Cobbler T 
Penis Dimension T 
Pooh Corner T 
Robert's Rectification T 
Serpentine T 
Sky Line T 
Spatial Relations T 
Time Quake T 
Tombstone Crack T 
Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Kevin Bein
Page Views: 1,874
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Aug 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Lisa approaches the business on I'd Rather Be In P...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I yarded off a huge "timebomb" flake that, for years, was used as a killer rest stance just before the crux. The flake was easily removed with a light pull while being lowered. I felt it move substantialy when I first stood on it. Without the flake, the route felt more sustained on toprope.... So, if you want to "feel" like you're doing a "first", get after it. Bring a drill and update the anchor while you're at it.

This is an awesome line, but it is not the best rock Vedauwoo has to offer. Hollow rock still exists just before the anchor. Rumor has it that it is possible to continue past the anchor at 80'. Beware of swifts within....

Protection 

0.4"-3" cams, wired nuts work best through the crux.


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By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2002

The rock quality is marginal on parts of this route, but the climbing is excellent. The crux bulge is difficult and rather continuous, and placing gear is challenging. Desperately lunging for the anchor slings with a full pump is not uncommon. A noble community service would be for someone to replace this anchor with a modern arrangement (sans wad-o-slings), but if you drill be particularly wary of the rock quality. The original line did not stop at the present-day anchors but was purported to traverse left from the anchors, at .12c, to safer ground. This was done perhaps only once, and may have reflected a hesitation on the part of the first ascent party to stop mid-way up a wall at an "artificial anchor" location (the FA was done before the advent of sport climbing). The first ascentionist, Kevin Bein, was a longtime Gunks climber (known to many as the "Mayor of the Gunks"), a gregarious, highly talented, and wonderful human being. He helped initiate many young "Gunkies" (myself included) into the world of hard climbing from his infectious positive energy and considerable climbing abilities. His motto was "you can do it!", which he truly believed, and it would make you believe it too- even if you were on a Gunks 5.10+ and your previous best was 5.9. He and his wife Barabara Devine lived in the Black HIlls of South Dakota for a few years in the early 1980s, and put up many fine routes there. They were some of the first "Needles" climbers to look for interesting new lines on obscure walls, away from the lure of the spire summits- kind of a modern (at least in 1980) version of the Conns. Barbara was a very talented climber in her own right, and was one of the first women in the US to climb 5.11. Kevin tragically perished on the Matterhorn in the mid-80s when his rap anchors failed.
By Jesse Ryan
Aug 30, 2002
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Beautiful, Thanks Steve.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 21, 2005

The anchors have been replaced, apears to be 2 standard bolts. Thanks to the equipper!
By eric whewell
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2009

The first half of this route is stellar, pretty much up to the crux, where the rock quality rapidly deteriorates. The upper finger section is full of shit and maybe a dead bird, there were tons of flies coming out of the crack. The hollow flake also seemed a bit sketchy.
By EldoFiend
From: WY
Aug 8, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Today I replaced the mess of webbing at the anchor with chain, and replaced a hanger on one of the bolts (it didn't have a hanger at all). However, I neglected to bring a wrench with me, so if someone would be so kind as to take one up and really tighten the right most bolt that would be great.