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The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)
Routes Sorted
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Angel of Death (formerly listed as Drink to Puke), The S 
Beer Belly T 
Hydraulic Sandwich S 
Icy Paralyzer S 

Icy Paralyzer 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, 1997.
Page Views: 567
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 22, 2002

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Stepping left onto the lip of the roof. Drink to P...

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>


This is the middle of three bolted lines on the Beer Can. It turns the big roof on the right, then breaks left and climbs a thin face.

From the top of the approach trail to the Beer Can, scramble up to a small ledge with a two-bolt belay anchor. Continue 20' right to another 2-bolt belay anchor; start here.

Climb up and right, clipping the first 7 bolts of Drink to Puke. Use long runners on the 6th and 7th bolts to minimize rope drag. Break left over the roof (5.9), and climb a thin face and corner (crux) past 3 more bolts. Continue up and left to the anchor.

This is a good first 5.11 sport lead.


2-bolt belay anchor. 15 bolts to a 3-bolt anchor. Bring a 60m rope and several longer runners.

The top anchor is shared by all three bolted routes on the rock.

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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 29, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought this was quite hard. Moving left to get established over the roof seemed much harder than the 5.9 that Ron says above. And you end up on an insecure stance. With difficulty, I moved further left and around the arete to a big ledge for a rest. The crux for me was making the clip after moving left onto the lip of the roof, but I was a little spooked and rattled.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 10, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The best of the 3 sport climbs on the wall, and a good route overall. I thought the moves through the roof were moderate 5.10 and a second 5.10 crux came up on thin face moves above. The picture below shows the good stem one can get by going high, clipping to the left, then stepping out to the branch off that this line takes from the 5.10 line. I found a really cool and fun rest there when, unable to stem due to a severe ankle injury, I layed back hard left with my body from the corner, crossed hands a few times and plopped my left palm down on the big bucket with my feet out to the right still horizontally even with my head. This felt like a "no hands" rest and was a stance sufficient to clip from. Funny stuff you run into on rocks like this.
By George Bracksieck
Sep 25, 2015

Yesterday, Mike Endicott and I climbed the routes known as "Hydraulic Sandwich" and "Icy Paralyzer." We now firmly agree that Mike led "Icy" in '81, when he placed maybe a couple/three wires and one or two Friends on the whole pitch. Only four sizes of rigid-stemmed Friends were available. A #1 Friend might have been placed to the left, after exiting from the main dihedral of "DtP" onto "Icy."

We thought our 1981 route was 5.10. That's one reason that I later assumed that we had done what became known as "DtP," which is rated 5.10. BTW in '81, we climbed directly up to the main dihedral, instead of traversing right from today's bolted anchors at the start of the pitch.

Instead of the cumbersome name "AoD," let's call this route Cool Runnings. Mike certainly kept is cool when running it out, up unknown, difficult, committing terrain — without any of the 15 bolts now on the climb.

See the comments posted for "AoD"/"DtP."

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