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BETA PHOTO: Snow Creek Wall
Iconoclast is a near classic; it has some interesting cruxes that are mostly well protected while maintaining fairly easy climbing on a spectacular wall. Most of the climb shares pitches with Hyperspace while exiting the Iconoclast corner/dihedral system to the right for the Shield (Hyperspace continues up for two more pitches). The exposure on the Shield is wild as you roam around slinging chicken heads and a few sparce bolts.
The start of Iconoclast begins after climbing the first two pitches of Remorse (typical and described below) or RPM.
Begin directly below the roofs that form the underside of Two Tree Ledge (you will be standing on the trail just to the left of the small scrub trees that are at the high point of the base of the wall).
P1- 45m+ - 5.6 - Climb easy 4th class ledges and corners to a 4th class ledge system that angles up to the left. The ledge system ends 20' below a small bush in front of a large flake that typicallly has many slings around it. Climb the right groove up and traverse left to the bush/flake.
P2- 25m+ - 5.8 - The next pitch traverses left all the way to the Psychopath ledge; start with some groove and face climbing up left aiming for the undercling flake; work your way back down the flake and traverse until you are forced into a balancy no hands traverse to more cracks; continue left along a rounded ledge (that works better for hands than feet) and finish with a mini crux up to the Psychopath ledge. Belay either at solid cracks and tree prior to the ledge proper, or continue across the gravelly ledge to the tree on the far side.
These can be climbed as one pitch with a 70m rope, or some very easy simulclimbing for 20+ feet (for the second) until the lead can gain the Psychopath ledge and set a belay.
Many people will climb the Pyschopath crack as a variation from here.
P3- 35m - 5.8+ - Around the Corner: Traverse out left (one bolt) and around the corner on some easy but exposed face climbing until you reach a crack; continue up the crack until ledges and cracks above the Pyschopath crack.
P4- 50m - 5.10a - The Roof Pitch: Follow the cracks/corner up to a excellent hand crack corner roof (a short fun move over); continue up alongside the block of doom; a solid belay is possible at the top of the block of doom (in cracks to the left of the block).
Be wary of the block doom as it is HUGE and seems to be detached and ready to release. The rockfall appears to be from 2008
P5- 45m - 5.10c - The Dihedral Pitch: Pull a second roof directly from the belay and follow up and over into a corner ledge that leads to the dihedral. An interesting (short) traverse down puts you under a dirty looking dihedral (it climbs clean), work up through secure but pumpy moves of the dihedral (good pro) (alternatively the right side face of the dihedral goes at 5.11a); continue up easier terrain to a two bolt belay.
P6- 50m - 5.10c - Transition to the Shield: Follow the corner up to the tree (or work a crimp/ledge ladder out left that leads back into the corner tree); head right climbing the face up around the corner (one bolt and sparse/small pro); don't forget to look over/around the corner for the chicken head saviors; finish up the face of the Shield through easy chicken head terrain (two bolts spaced wildly apart and maybe a slung chicken head) to a two bolt belay at a tree.
P7- 25m - 5.7 - The Mini Dihedral: Follow a short but beautiful little left-facing dihedral with a 2" crack in the back of it that leads directly to the left most end of Library Ledge; two bolt belay.
Most parties will follow the last two pitches (68 meters) of Outerspace from hear.
P8- 55m - 5.10b A0 - Continue up the 5.10b slab climbing (sparse? bolts) from the left side of Library Ledge to a bolt ladder. (I have not climbed this pitch so beta is second hand)
Approach Snow Creek Wall via the Snow Lakes Trail. Stay on the trail for ~1.5 miles, until you just enter the trees (parallel to the wall). A trail down through the woods leads to a log crossing on Snow Creek, and up to the wall at the base of P1. A windstorm from the winter of 2010/2011 obliterated the trail proper for a few hundred feet on either side of the creek, follow the path of least resistance (look for rock cairns and cut branches through/on the maze of logs)
The walkoff from the top is to the left or you can rappel the route with two ropes.
Medium Rack to 3";
1 set of nuts
doubles of cams #.5 to #2
Kyle leading psychopath var. photo by Steph Abegg
Kyle on the yellow wall var. photo by Steph Abegg
Jun 4, 2012
The Psychopath variation is really fun, not particularly hard, but the crux is techy and tricky.
I would recommend continuing past the block of doom about 25' to the base of the dihedral on P4 if you've got a 70m. The belay will be more comfortable with better pro and the belayer will be able to see their climber.
I would also link P6 & P7 together, take a #2 & #3 C4 to protect the mini dihedral. We didn't find the two widely spaced bolts on the face before the belay at the tree, but there were a couple of nut and cam placements to supplement the bolts, and the climbing was super easy after turning the corner onto the sheild.
Aug 29, 2013
The first two pitches (Remorse) are surprisingly fun (and would be a good alternative start to Outer Space)! Note that there were wasps at the top of P1 by a fixed piece (on 8/26/13).
From: Wenatchee, WA
Nov 9, 2013
Iconoclast is such a fun route. A couple comments to add...The double roof pitch, though rated at 5.10a, is more like 5.8+. There isn't a hard move on it, and it's all sinker hand jamming on low angled terrain.
Second comment, choosing between the 5.10c corner vs. the 5.11a Yellow Wall to the right of it, make the right choice and climb the Yellow Wall. It just may be the best pitch on Icnonclast. It's got abundant pro, and after a beefy move or two, it's actually very secure jug and jamming to the chains. The movement on this pitch will blow you away. Probably soft at 5.11a, but I've climbed it so many times I'm no longer able to objectively determine that. I do know that it would be a great pitch to push into the grade.
Final comment, the next pitch out onto the shield is also very fun. The 5.10c move is very committing. You get one bolt to protect you, but must pull a couple balancy awkward moves to the next protection opportunity well above and to the right of the bolt. Blowing any of these moves will send you on a swinging fall back onto the lower angled face below you. And do not underestimate the "easy" climbing on the chickenheads once you pull around onto the shield. There are serious consequences should you fall before you reach the bolt midway up this pitch. Don't go into this pitch expecting the easy chickenheads you climbed on Outer Space. It's much steeper than O/S, and the path not entirely intuitive.
A 60m rope will get you from the chain anchor above the Yellow Wall all the way up the shield and 5.8 corner to the left end of Library Ledge and the bolted belay station.
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
P6 has a small but really good crack for pro about 7' above the first bolt, so your well protected when you transition to the shield, then the chicken heads are there and although its run-out, its 5.7 climbing max. the first bolt on the shield that i saw (only one i saw) was closer to the left edge than expected, about 30' up, nice and shiny, fwiw. learn the one handed slip knot for those chickens, or girth 'em!! psycho is definitely worth it, agreed techy, but not too difficult.