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5.10c

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
FA: Dave Evans, Todd Gordon, Todd Battey, Tom Burke, Jim Angione & Craig Fry, September 1988
Submitted By: Randy on Mar 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Adrienne Kentner following Icon 5.10c

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Description 

This clean, steep, somewhat right leaning crack would be crowded every day of the season if it were located closer to the masses. It is located on the steep southeast face of Olympic Dome just right of Black Diamond (5.12a); to get to the base of the route, some "Class 3" climbing is necessary.

Though the crack appears fairly wide in spots, it has no dreaded offwidth sections and is an excellent route.


Protection 

Bring a good selection of medium to large pro (to 4"). 2 bolt anchor/rap.



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By Murf
Jan 17, 2005
rating: 5.10c

Thought there was a wide move or two up high. Vaguely disappointed although the route was very good, I suspect I was expecting a splitter, still 4 of 5 *'s. Bolts at the top, w/o chains/slings seemed an oddity.

By RTM
Feb 16, 2009
rating: 5.10c

Amazing rock!

By Simon Hatfield
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 30, 2012

I was thrilled with this one. Fabulous rock with secure, just-past-vertical jamming and straightforward gear in the most beautiful locale in the park.

As Murf said, a pair of screw-links would allow a convenient ~90' rappel from the two bolt anchor, but the downclimb (over the top, then climbers right) is doable if you don't want to leave gear.

By Richard Shore
Dec 10, 2012

Well worth the 1.5-2 hour approach. The rock is patina'ed to the point of being slippery smooth. New webbing and leaver 'biner at the anchor to facilitate rappel as of 12/2012. Nothing smaller than 0.5/0.75 Camelot needed for the lead. Pretty steep - the rappel is free hanging.