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Tijeras Peak
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Ichiban 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J C Wilks, Denise Wilks - June 13, 2000
Season: Summer
Page Views: 752
Submitted By: J C Wilks on Feb 19, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Topo Route 1 is Ichiban

Description 

This route follows a water course directly to the summit. We did not find any water seeping on this route as it was a dry day. Scramble up the 4th class rock to the right of the snow patch to belay. Climb two pitches of high quality rock on a steep ramp with good water smoothed edges 5.5 & 5.7. At the top of the second pitch set the belay off to the right of the ledge out of the way of the gully starting up the next pitch (3), 5.7. If you can avoid this pitch on harder rock, it might be worthwhile establishing a variation pitch, as this is a gully filled with loose material. Top out this pitch in the open on lower angle terrain, look up and to the left for a slab section with U shaped ledges. (4) Lead the unprotected face left of a crack that ends short of the higher ledge, 5.8X. The face above the crack appears to be about .10aR. I stacked two Z pitons in a flare for the belay at the top of this pitch, the second U ledge. Consider moving the belay from the top of the 3rd pitch closer to the base of the 4th X pitch for more pro options at a higher belay. Pitch (5), follow the easy right leaning trough for a short pitch to belay below an exit to the left. This pitch (6) has a short fun 5.8 section with good pro and takes you to the lower angle upper slopes of occasional easy 5th and increasingly 4th and 3rd class to the summit. Enjoy the stunning view of the 14ers to the north and south and the dunes below!

Location 

Ichiban starts high in the upper cirque at about 12,800 ft. Find the black and grey ramp left of the great arete where the wall turns from brown to grey as you hike uphill into the cirque.

Protection 

Use a full trad rack. A few Knife Blades and Bugaboos may be useful.


Photos of Ichiban Slideshow Add Photo
Ichiban in the upper cirque of Tijeras Peak's sout...
BETA PHOTO: Ichiban in the upper cirque of Tijeras Peak's sout...

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