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Jun 29, 2012
rockandice.com/news/2068-unbel...

friend took this footage when they were rapping down a route late in the day and ran into another party coming up the route that was rapidly deteriorating...

terrifying.
Phill T
Joined May 5, 2008
148 points
Jun 29, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
WOW Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
267 points
Jun 30, 2012
Thanks Hank Caylor!
Amen! Bang
From Charlottesville, VA
Joined Dec 12, 2010
44 points
Jun 30, 2012
On Peak 11,300 in the Ruth
Dang! Lucky dude! tsuji
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 9, 2009
282 points
WOW! The look of relief on that guys face. I have never ice climbed before, how do you end up in a situation like that? The folks that helped him said they climbed it earlier, so the route maybe melted while he was on it?
Jun 30, 2012
working through the crux
I wonder what that guy's belayer was thinking when all that ice came crashing down Tayte Campbell
From Provo, UT
Joined Sep 7, 2010
25 points
Jun 30, 2012
Bocan
JonathanHillis wrote:
WOW! The look of relief on that guys face. I have never ice climbed before, how do you end up in a situation like that? The folks that helped him said they climbed it earlier, so the route maybe melted while he was on it?


Late starts, rapidly rising temps etc. On belay I've had a deluge come down the rope or took out a screw and water just started shooting out. He probably had water running under ice down low then got to a thin slab and blammo.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
952 points
Oct 5, 2012
The look of relief on that guys face. I have never ice climbed before, how do you end up in a situation like that? The folks that helped him said they climbed it earlier, so the route maybe melted while he was on it. Taylor152
Joined Oct 3, 2012
0 points
Oct 5, 2012
Taylor152 wrote:
The look of relief on that guys face. I have never ice climbed before, how do you end up in a situation like that? The folks that helped him said they climbed it earlier, so the route maybe melted while he was on it.


Wow, what are the odds that you and J Hazard (scroll up a few posts) would have such a similar take on this?!
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
1,730 points
Oct 5, 2012
Bocan
Taylor152 wrote:
The look of relief on that guys face. I have never ice climbed before, how do you end up in a situation like that? The folks that helped him said they climbed it earlier, so the route maybe melted while he was on it.


Ice is a very dynamic medium. In the new issue of R&I there is a story about climbing down in Glenwood Springs and a 30ft icicle detached and fell on them. Apparently the falls have a warm water source that causes rapid deterioration.

Temps, recent weather, bonding, source and a multitude of things can change the ice. You can climb something and the next day it's gone.

This dude probably was just climbing way thin ice too late on a warm day from the looks of the water pouring down it. I wonder if he quit ice climbing after almost getting killed...
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
952 points


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