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Mt. Whitney
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Cardiovascular Seizure T 
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Mountaineer's Route, The 
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Cardiovascular Seizure 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,419
Submitted By: markguycan on Jul 14, 2008  with updates from Neil Kauffman

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Following the crux pitch.

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  • Description 

    This worthwhile route climbs the right most dihedral system.

    P1: varied cracks 5.8,
    P2: right leaning crack system up toward corner, switch to higher of two cracks midway then up to ledge with 2 piton belay- 10a.
    P3: unusual double cracks at 90 degrees inside corner (side by side foot jams and bilateral gaston)- 5.9 belay on small pillar with gear,
    P4: steep flared hands with poor flaky feet 11- to chimney and ledge on right. This cruxy pitch could be avoided by staying in corner to the right at probably 5.9
    P5: varied cracks to chimney to big ledge- long pitch 5.8
    P6: step right from ledge then up steep clean corner (small gear), then hand traverse right to next corner to small roof/ledge then up final chimney to summit 10b.

    Descend off the north side - easy 5th and 4th class downclimbing to ledges and scree the contour around to Whitney-Russell col.

    Location 

    Between the Mountaineer's Route and the Whitney- Russell col: the most prominent, aesthetic sub-peak called "Iceberg Spire".

    Protection 

    Nuts plus cams doubles to #2 Camalot plus 1 #3.


    Photos of Cardiovascular Seizure Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 3 maybe combined with 4.  pitch 5 and 6 are ...
    BETA PHOTO: pitch 3 maybe combined with 4. pitch 5 and 6 are ...

    Comments on Cardiovascular Seizure Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By bio
    From: mesa, az
    Jul 15, 2008

    Crux is 5.11- but a great line, though a bit grungy it's worth it, espectially the last airy pitch.
    S
    By Fat Dad
    From: Los Angeles, CA
    Oct 10, 2014

    Wow, way to dig out an obscure climb. I always wondered where this route went. Was this in a more recent guide? The only place I ever read an account of it was a typically vague description in an old AAJ. FA: Galen Rowell and I think Vern Clevenger. Don't quote me on the latter though.
    By markguycan
    From: flagstaff, AZ
    Oct 30, 2014

    We had hoped we were embarking on a FA but discovered a few rusty pitons along the way.
    By Dave Stimson
    From: Pincher Creek
    Sep 6, 2016

    A little scaly, but a phenomenal line and some really stellar crack climbing! Give the spectators down at Iceberg something to watch other than the usual Butt-Face parties.

    I don't think the corner at 5.9 is a viable alternative to the crux pitch. The main corner looked pretty loose and bottoming... maybe 5.9 R/X. Unless there was another corner to the right...

    The descent beta wasn't very helpful. We went to the north side and did some exposed 4th/low 5th down climbing to a large ledge (about a half pitch). We were able to link together more ledges, but I think a hard traverse to the west on the big ledge would take you right out to a scree/talus slope. There was also a new rap station on the top of the "Iceberg Spire" that looked like it dropped you onto the south side to ledges and then worked down into a gully feature. Not sure about the details on this...

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