"Iceberg Spire"  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Submitted By:  markguycan on Jul 14, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: pitch 3 maybe combined with 4. pitch 5 and 6 are ...

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Description 

this probably has another name but it is not listed by Secor, Croft or Moynier. Nor does anyone I've spoken to know about it. Never-the-less- it is a worthwhile peak- (if you have more info please share)
Climbs the right most dihedral system. P1: varied cracks 5.8, P2: right leaning crack system up toward corner, switch to higher of two cracks midway then up to ledge with 2 piton belay- 10a. P3: unusual dbl cracks at 90degrees inside corner (side by side foot jams and bilateral gaston)- 5.9 belay on small pillar with gear, P4: steep flared hands with poor flaky feet 11- to chimney and ledge on right. This cruxy pitch could be avoided by staying in corner to the right at probably 5.9 P5: varied cracks to chimney to big ledge- long pitch 5.8 P6: step right from ledge then up steep clean corner (small gear), then hand traverse right to next corner to small roof/ledge then up final chimney to summit 10b. descend off the north side - easy 5th and 4th class downclimbing to ledges and scree the contour around to whitney-Russell col.

Location 

between the Moutaineer's Route and the Whitney- Russell col: the most prominent, aesthetic sub-peak above Iceberg Lake

Protection 

nuts plus cams doubles to #2 camalot plus 1 #3.