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BETA PHOTO: pitch 3 maybe combined with 4. pitch 5 and 6 are ...
This worthwhile route climbs the right most dihedral system. P1: varied cracks 5.8, P2: right leaning crack system up toward corner, switch to higher of two cracks midway then up to ledge with 2 piton belay- 10a. P3: unusual dbl cracks at 90degrees inside corner (side by side foot jams and bilateral gaston)- 5.9 belay on small pillar with gear, P4: steep flared hands with poor flaky feet 11- to chimney and ledge on right. This cruxy pitch could be avoided by staying in corner to the right at probably 5.9 P5: varied cracks to chimney to big ledge- long pitch 5.8 P6: step right from ledge then up steep clean corner (small gear), then hand traverse right to next corner to small roof/ledge then up final chimney to summit 10b. descend off the north side - easy 5th and 4th class downclimbing to ledges and scree the contour around to whitney-Russell col.
Between the Mountaineer's Route and the Whitney- Russell col: the most prominent, aesthetic sub-peak called "Iceberg Spire".
Nuts plus cams doubles to #2 Camalot plus 1 #3.
From: mesa, az
Jul 15, 2008
Crux is 5.11- but a great line, though a bit grungy it's worth it, espectially the last airy pitch.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 10, 2014
Wow, way to dig out an obscure climb. I always wondered where this route went. Was this in a more recent guide? The only place I ever read an account of it was a typically vague description in an old AAJ. FA: Galen Rowell and I think Vern Clevenger. Don't quote me on the latter though.