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Why do people climb ice?

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By Jimn Seiler
From Denver, CO
Feb 27, 2008
snake river cutthroat

climber73 wrote:
I used to think that as well. Now nothing quite compares to leading ice. After leading my first and only WI5 I realized that I'd never really been runout on rock before... even though I thought I was. Ice is just another discipline in the quiver for opening up new possibilities. To me, the perfect route requires expertise in many facets of climbing (rock, ice, aid, mixed). The more ingenuity a route requires the more rewarding it seems to be. All that said, ice climbing is just really fun.


I use to think the same way as you. Then I was leading a WI5 and the chunk of ice I was on collapsed and almost took out my belayer, sent me down to my 1st ice screw that popped out and then my 2nd screw held and saved my ass. Then I looked down and realized that I was about 4 feet from the ground, after that I changed my views on the stability of ice. The ice was good, not chandelier or anything of the sort, good, blue, plastic ice. I still feel I did everything right as far as my lead but like I said you have very little control or thought perception when it comes to ice. When it's ready to go it goes and you have very little control of that.

By Kartch
From Belgrade, MT
Feb 27, 2008

To give my ADD head a break from all the static in the background and just being able to focus for once man. Clears the mind and settles the soul. The exercise and endorphins are a nice bonus.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Hinesburg, Vermont
Feb 27, 2008
Me and my pup, Mabel, on the Launch Pad at Whitehorse Ledge, NH.

Tom Hanson wrote:
Ice climbing season is over here in Colorado. Temps near 70 this coming Saturday!


Wish I could say the same up here in Vermont...Although the days are finally getting longer again, high temps have dipped into the upper teens for the umpteenth time, the snow doesn't seem to be stopping anytime soon, and those damn frozen icicles seem to be growing fatter and longer again...guess I should go sharpen my tools.

And to answer the question: I have no effin' clue why I climb ice...it scares the bajesus outta me, and I hate festering below a frozen medium that is tres, TRES temporary!! Perhaps it's because climbing rock seems way better after a season of suffering.

By Daniel
From Divide, CO
Feb 27, 2008
Getting ready for the first ice climb of the 07/08 season.

Focus,
five hour round trips to Vail on bad roads,
not needing digit strength,
one swing one stick,
plastic blue ice,
coming from a rock roof to a hanging cicle,
Ouray,
figure fours,
seeing the looks on people's faces when you tell them what you dig,
sounds,
More focus,
I have no idea

By hj schmidt
Feb 27, 2008

Because the bars aren't open yet.

By Jim Amidon
Feb 27, 2008
What ??

Because it's there.......

One day.......

Then gone the next......

Nothing else like it..

By Ron L Long
From Out yonder in Wisco.
Feb 27, 2008
City life

Why? Why not?

By Stymingersfink
Feb 27, 2008
Redtail Hawk, circling nest 40' up the tower at Anderson Pass

a picture is worth a thousand words. my thousand word essay:






















By Ben Kiessel
Feb 27, 2008
2003

micahisaac, you were not listening, for one to have fun climbing ice there must be pucker factor or you must not be able to climb pumpy 5.11 so that it is a challenge to you.

Sure mixed and alpine are more fun then ice but the question was not Why to people alpine climb? or Why do people Mixed climb? It was why do people ice climb? If you have done a few single pitch ice routes in the ouray ice park or any other hell hole for that matter you have plenty of experience for damn near anything you will get on in the mountains.

Peace and Love,
Ben

By Stymingersfink
Feb 27, 2008
Redtail Hawk, circling nest 40' up the tower at Anderson Pass

Ben Kiessel wrote:
micahisaac, you were not listening, for one to have fun climbing ice there must be pucker factor or you must not be able to climb pumpy 5.11 so that it is a challenge to you. Sure mixed and alpine are more fun then ice but the question was not Why to people alpine climb? or Why do people Mixed climb? It was why do people ice climb? If you have done a few single pitch ice routes in the ouray ice park or any other hell hole for that matter you have plenty of experience for damn near anything you will get on in the mountains. Peace and Love, Ben

i'm not going to agree whole-heartedly with you on that one... just because someone's gotten some single-pitch ice routes in the Park does in no way make them experienced enough to come out and play in the mountains.

There's much to playing out here than just knowing how to move over ice. Much, much more.

By Doug Shepherd
From Fort Collins, CO
Feb 27, 2008
Beer float!

Ben Kiessel wrote:
micahisaac, you were not listening, for one to have fun climbing ice there must be pucker factor or you must not be able to climb pumpy 5.11 so that it is a challenge to you. Sure mixed and alpine are more fun then ice but the question was not Why to people alpine climb? or Why do people Mixed climb? It was why do people ice climb? If you have done a few single pitch ice routes in the ouray ice park or any other hell hole for that matter you have plenty of experience for damn near anything you will get on in the mountains. Peace and Love, Ben


Wow. I'm going to completely disagree with you on this one.

I love ice climbing for the moment, the amazing features you can get up, the camaraderie, the fact you're climbing frozen water, being outside in the winter...the list goes on and on. I love the pucker factor as well, but there is just something really fun about ice climbing. I also ice climb to train for alpine climbing. That's why Cody is the alpine simulator!

A few pitches in the ice park in NO WAY prepares you for the high mountains, hell it doesn't even prepare you to climb a moderate multi-pitch ice climb. If you've got someone who thinks that a day or two in Ouray has got them ready for the big ranges (or even Cody/Canada), then I've got some routes they should come climb with me to open their eyes.

That said, I agree the technicality tops out at certain point, but being able to climb one fresh, hard ice pitch after another (and then another..and another...) takes a lot more strength/endurance then being able to climb a pumpy 5.11 pitch.

By Ben Kiessel
Feb 28, 2008
2003

Stymingersfink, your right I did not write what I was actually thinking. I don't think that climbing some ice prepares you for avalanches, cornices, reading weather, etc. I do however think that climbing a little ice in the park would prepare you for vast majority of ice you will encounter in the mountains. I'm saying a little ice prepares you for ice not snow, rock and everything else.

Doug wrote, "being able to climb one fresh, hard ice pitch after another (and then another..and another...) takes a lot more strength/endurance then being able to climb a pumpy 5.11 pitch."

Sure, it takes more endurance then climbing one pitch of 5.11 but it does not take more strength/endurance then climbing pitch after pitch of 5.11. Whether your leading every pitch or swinging leads you get a break. If your soloing 1,500' of consistent WI5 then yes that is harder then 5.11. Maybe more like easy 5.12.

Ben

By mattb19
From Albuquerque, NM
Feb 28, 2008
Approach to Highway to Hell

Stymingersfink, I like your taste in booze. You always seem to have a good pic of some good looking whiskey. This is how I picture your perfect ice climb.

Ice climbing in Whisky


The crux is to be able to have the desire to get back on once you fall.

By phil broscovak
From Boo-older, Co.
Feb 29, 2008
Stemming the roof to scope out the 'blind' stopper placement, 1986.

Ben Kiessel wrote:
micahisaac, you were not listening, for one to have fun climbing ice there must be pucker factor or you must not be able to climb pumpy 5.11 so that it is a challenge to you. Sure mixed and alpine are more fun then ice but the question was not Why to people alpine climb? or Why do people Mixed climb? It was why do people ice climb? If you have done a few single pitch ice routes in the ouray ice park or any other hell hole for that matter you have plenty of experience for damn near anything you will get on in the mountains. Peace and Love, Ben


Wow Ben you seem a little jaded. Or are you trolling?
There are NO absolutes in climbing. What makes you happy is not what has to make anyone else happy. By unilaterally saying "for one to have fun..." implies an unrealistic universality to the concept of fun. Some of us like to have fun without having the meaning of fun dictated to us. We just like to have our own definition of fun.
I am glad for you that 5.11+/5.12-/WI5 is a pumpless boredom. But not everyone is lucky enough to be such a hardman. The newbie out for a few introductory laps at the Ice Park is still likely having fun flailing and learning even if that isn't fun for you. Suggesting that a few single pitch ice climbs in Ouray prepares one for ice climbing in the mountains is tantamount to saying a few bungee jumps prepares one for BASE jumping.

By phil broscovak
From Boo-older, Co.
Feb 29, 2008
Stemming the roof to scope out the 'blind' stopper placement, 1986.

jon jugenheimer wrote:
TO see beyond only the warm rock of the lowlands, to see one of your favorite mountains in the evening alpenglow, and to go to the same place and climb the same route a hundred different times.

Now this cat gets it!

By Rick Witting
Feb 29, 2008
The Needle, Prospect Mtn (not RMNP)Photo by Jay Eggleston

As Mark Twight said, "it doesn't have to be fun to be fun."

By Neil O Cary
Feb 29, 2008

Rick Witting wrote:
As Mark Twight said, "it doesn't have to be fun to be fun."


Back from my Adventure Racing days... "if you're having fun, you're not trying hard enough"

I like ice climbing. That is enough for me.

By Allen Hill
From Glenelk, Colorado
Feb 29, 2008
Bush's new economic advisor. Excellent!

Tom Patey summed it up nicely I think

"Ice is for pouring whiskey over."

By TIM DANLEY
From silt, co
Mar 10, 2008
Roman Headwall<br />

Well, until you get a couple of quality screws in on the ice, you just won't understand.

By George Bell
From Boulder, CO
Mar 10, 2008
Hip trouble ...

I am a happily retired ice climber. I still keep my old tools but everyone would probably laugh at these leashed relics were I to get out again. In Colorado, it always seemed there were too many ice climbers chasing too little ice and I can't imagine things have gotten any better.

One thing I remember is that climbing ice takes a different sort of climber than rock climbing. When climbing ice, rarely is everything "perfect". Your fingers or toes are cold, snow is blowing in your face, you bash your knuckles into the ice; or it's too warm, your gloves are soaked, water is dripping in your face, etc, etc. I always marveled at ice climbing leaders who were able to deal uncomplainingly with everything that nature was throwing at them. When rock climbing, it is always warmer, and the goal is to use less equipment, so you generally don't carry so much stuff. On the other hand rock climbing can be just as crowded.

By TIM DANLEY
From silt, co
Mar 10, 2008
Roman Headwall<br />

I think you need to show us a pic of those tools dude.


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