Where is the best place to live in the US for ice climbing? I'm thinking near Ouray, Cody, or New Hampshire? What do you think?

For ease of approach, I'm going for Ouray area. Plus you can treat box canyon like a gym, then have plenty of surrounding alpine climbs for the real stuff.

I spent most of last winter living near Ouray and then in Cody.

Ouray is very pretty, has the outdoor gym at the ice park and tons of alpine stuff nearby, as well as being relatively close to Indian Creek and is a big climbing center; on the downside, climbs are often crowded, even in the backcountry, and depending on your taste the town might feel a little small and limiting and there's lot of snow to deal with.

Cody climbing is absolutely killer and not very crowded; on the downside, the approaches can be big, the local climbing community is small, the town isn't all that interesting and everything is a long ways away in winter.

Personally, I'd move to Ouray (or some other town on the Western Slope) under the right circumstances but Cody would be pretty far down my list of places to live.

I might be a little bias because I grew up there, but in my opinion Adirondacks, Keene Valley NY. There is so much ice and its all amazing. I've climbed in Ouray, all around Colorado and nothing compares to the ice back home.

just my 2 cents...

Rob

Without a doubt it is Ouray or Ridgeway which is inbetween Ouray and Telluride.

If you're going to move somewhere for the ice you'll want consistent conditions and an oppotunity to meet other climbers who you might partner up with to visit other areas. The Ice Park in Ouray can be crowded but usually if you hang in the leading area you won't have any competition for the routes AND if you do live there you can pick and choose when and where you climb, thus avoiding the crowds. The other-laying ice climbs are very good and not crowded. Then there is the proximity to Bridalveil Falls and other classics like the Ames ICe Hose. Lake City has an ice park and about 40 other climbs that consistently form up year after year and that's just two hours away.......There is still potential for FAs on ice and alpine routes plus the knowledge and experience you'll gain from traveling and playing in the long winter there will give you a good background for other, more ambitious ascents........Indian Creek is just two hours away and Vail is just two hours away.

Otherwise, my only advice would be to cultivate an Australian accent, move to Canmore and flip pancakes at the "little Miner" coffee shop. The Canadian women are cute AND they can carry a heavy pack!!

jack

I'm not sure about Ouray's features.

Cody is the best place in the big horn basin to reside- but that ain't saying much. I spent 3 years there so I can speak a little. When you can find ice partners, it has maybe the best south of the border. Cdn Rockies ice trumps Cody by a large margin. It is not easy to get to Banff/Jasper from the Cody area. In Cody there are far more summer jobs there unless you can come up with a good idea and be self employed. The community college (in Powell) is about 30 minutes from Cody. If you like sport climbing, Tensleep maybe the best area - like an hour and 1/2 from Cody. You also can migrate to the winds, tetons, and do plenty of backcountry (warning- w/ grizz!) alpine hiking in Cody's Absaroka backyard.

New England:
Willoughby is outstanding for anywhere in the states and the daks, conway, and catskills can keep you busy. I think far more job opportunities exist in striking distance in this area vs remote Colorado or Wyoming.

If you want to be an alpine specialist move to somewhere close to the Cdn rockies or an area like estes park with access to things nearby. A good friend started in Bellingham, WA first....

Whitegrass, Montana
There isn't a mountain or an ice flow for as far as the photons can flow, but its the closest you are going to get to the Banff Valley and Jasper Highway, and all other ice climbing destinations pale.
Sorry Colorado. Its true.

They say Orient Bay in northwestern Ontario is unbeatable . . .

Thibodaux, LA or Flatonia, TX

Stellar climbs that you will never forget (or is it forget to remember??)

I would have to say Ouray/Ridgeway. I would personally live in Ridgeway due to the fact that it is a little bigger. If you are young Ouray can be a really boring in the winter time when you are not climbing. If you are in Ridgeway and bored you can always head over to Telluride where the night life is a little more active.

The routes are not crowded if you climb during the week. The weekends are for skiing and lounging. Plus if you live up there you will learn about all the secret ice. ;)

Although Canada would be pretty cool if you could get them to let you live there. It is very hard from what I understand to move to Canada.

New England is the best in terms of easy access (road side), diversity of climbs (remote, alpine, cragging, road cuts) and just the plain amounts of ice, etc. that are accessible.

Thunder Bay is good, but pretty isolated and not really diverse.

The west, in general, is far more involved. (With the exception of Ouray.)

1. Cody
2. Ouray
3. Estes park

I lived in Ouray for 2 winters and my vote would be for Ridgeway. Canada would be tops, but I don't think they're giving green cards to any Americans right now.

Parowan, UT.



hey TK.

Interesting pdf....Could be Sweetgrass Hills...I'm just mainly curious.


Hiya Kartch! You should bump the Batholith thread...hehe

Yeah, Sweet Grass. THe border town. White Grass is a ranch in WYoming. Thanks Kirra.
PS. Don't move to WHite Grass or Sweet Grass based on this posting.

Thanks for the confirmation...

Kevin - it was no joke, or was it? I guess it depends on the year. If you're still in Kanab look up Steve Henry he can show you a few routes around there. You can also drive over to Cedar City and Parowan Canyon for some good ice - the best being Hidden Haven. It's not the hardest route out there but it's scenic and a lot of fun. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/cedar_city/cedar_city_>>>>>

If you're totally hardcore put up some mixed lines on those beehive formations about a mile up the road from the 25 MPH turn in Parowan Canyon. They've been hanging over that road for too long and without an active ice community they may be there a while longer.