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Ice Slot 

WI4-

   
Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus: WI4- [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,843
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Feb 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Ice Slot December 2010

Description 

Short, blue bulge in the beginning, then a pleasant stemming corner to an optional belay ledge (used to set up a TR on "Your Mother"--WI 5), then choose which exit you want to tackle---A short, but vertical pillar, or a exit right through a short bulge.

Location 

Left-facing flow 50 feet to the right of Hot Shot. Choose your exit...either left up a vertical pillar or escape right.

Protection 

Screws, draws, screamers.


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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 18, 2011
rating: WI4-

I found nothing pleasant about stemming the corner on this thing. My crampons were scraping the verglass on the right hand side and the ice was thin on the left - topping out the stem corner was ugly. Then again, I am not a graceful ice climber in the least.
By Ben Brotelho
From: Albany, NY
Feb 3, 2012

When the middle cave-like pillar is broken or just unformed, this can feel pretty tricky! I followed it and it was very fun. I enjoyed stemming on very hollow delicate pillar on the left and pulling some funky moves to get out from behind the broken curtain.

quite fun
By Bill Kirby
From: Baltimore Maryland
Mar 23, 2013

Ice Slot was huge this year! Very straight forward.

Your Mama was the fattest it's ever been too. Blue Lines rates Your Mama as a 4+... What?
By Gunkiemike
Jan 14, 2014

When the central pillar isn't big enough, you can go up and left a bit then make a pin-protected high step back right. This turned out to be a critical move for me a year ago after a cold spell (-18 F) stressed the aforementioned pillar. To me, it just looked sketchy and I wanted nothing to do with it. Sure enough, a climber shortly afterwards committed to it, with rather disastrous results (pillar shattered, broken arm).
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Mar 6, 2014
rating: WI4-

Mike your story doesn't surprise me at all. That central pillar always looks/feels sketchy to me and I can only imagine what -18 degree temps would do to it.