Ice Cream Parlor 

Saw the area 05/22/04. There are actually many more routes in the Ice Cream Parlor that have not made this site yet. A friendly group we met up there pointed out a 5.6 trad route to anchors, another 5.7 trad route to anchors, and we saw anchors for about three other routes that aren't in any guide books yet. I don't know any names or any other info on the newer routes... sorry. Though, we could have done more climbing if we had bigger cams... bring a big rack with big pro for some of the routes that are not on this site yet. Great area!

Climbed around here for the first time last week. Good fun. A few bolted routes (not in guide) around the 3-crack area. They appeared to be around 5.8/5.9's and a 5.10 far right. We climbed a crack just right of Knee Grinder (I think). The route went: up an "easy" water groove, through a dirty BD#4 bulge, thin fingers corner (i.e. hard to protect), right around a roof, up to some anchor/slings. The Bjornstad guide misrepresents this line (i.e. lists it twice differently). Anyone know what it is??

The Ice Cream Parlor is a great area for climbers that want a relaxed atmosphere. Great for families because it has climbs for all abilities (5.6 - 5.11). Good top anchors make setting top ropes a breeze.

nice south facing wall with some good variety in routes. looks like they closed off the camping area for parking (or maybe due to jeep safari that was going on)? wide spot in the road still fits a few cars. Perfect setting for a relaxed afternoon at the crag.

Here is a guide to put the routes in order from left to right. (updated 11/06/08)

Starting from the lower left: Pandemic 10+, Kura Burnan 12, Rattler 11.

Up the hill approx 50 feet/30 feet down and left from slabs: Unkown 8 (left slanting finger crack).

At the left side of slabs: 5.6 Corner, 10TR, Parlor Game 9 (3 bolts). Unkown 7 (approx 5 bolts).

Right of gully: Black Slab 6 (Bolts - 2 different starts), Slab 7 (bolts), Crack 3 8 TR, Crack 2 8R or TR, Crack 1 (aka Wolverine) 8, Hot Carl Sunday 10b/c bolts, RP City 10b, same start as RP City is Vanilla Cream 10a mixed.

traverse right on ledge to Freezer Burn and "Not RP City" 10a with one bolt at start then moves right into corner/crack system (incorrectly listed as RP City in Rock Climbing Utah).

A hundred yards right get on ledge and traverse left to (from left to right): A Good Day to Die 9, Ice Cream Parlor Crack 11b, Pulp Friction 11, The Coffin 9, The Possessed 11c bolts, Knee Grinder 9+ (right of and behind Possessed with same anchor).

Right of Knee Grinder (not 100% sure of the following. they all exist but not sure of order): Deathtrap 8, T-Rex II/11c/4 pitches, basterdized old route.

See topo: www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/kane_springs_canyon>>>

There is a route between Unknown 8 and 5.6 Corner that starts on either splitter fingers or a wide slot, then climbs through rubble to a two bolt anchor. It is incredibly loose between the initial splitter or offwidth and the anchors, and should be avoided at all cost. Toproping this route WILL cause rock fall.

Reference Greg D's comment. I just climbed Ice Cream Parlor 2 days ago. There are quite a few sport slab climbs that are easy and fun. we swung over and top roped the 10 to the left side of the slab, thats actually the best slab climb i did during my entire stay in Moab, it was great! Its a great place, good view, we were sad it was the last place we checked out we didnt even get to make it down to the right side. Also, slab climb number 3 has two pitches. The second pitch is bolted as well and is really easy so good for multi pitch practice. The last bolt to the chains is pretty run out but you can literally walk to it. Good stuff!

I had a bit of a hard time finding the location of this area based on the provided directions. I think a few things have changed over the years. Camping is not allowed at the pullout/ parking area and there are several cattle guards along Kane creek. I found it easiest if you head into the canyon from Moab. After descending into the canyon there is an intermittent stream crossing just after you pass a campsite area on the left. Then after the canyon begins to open up and the road turns to the left there is a pullout on the left for this area. I hope that helps.

Some recent updates were in order. So, Scott H's post may not apply any longer.