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The Bank
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Unsorted Routes:

Ice Cream Hangover 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unpublished
Page Views: 578
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 25, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

About 30 feet right of the Surreal Estate Wall is a short face with two bolted lines on it. The left of these is Hangover. I may be the only one I know who gets a kick out of this route.

Follow some edges for a dozen feet to a couple of pocket pulls that gain an over the head horizontal crack that will soon turn into a undercling. I've usually used a nice cross through to step into the undercling, which has always made for a satisfying sequence, something of a kinesthetic kick. It is not the best stone to begin with, but it has a nice sequence to play on.

Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.


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By Mike Sofranko
Nov 27, 2001

Count me among those who don't get a kick out of this route. I thought the first two bolts were rather dangerously placed for a sport route - I was happy to use lockers on them. Then, I followed the big holds (habit of mine), and ended up way left on the arete! Surely off route, no matter, I dogged it anyway.
By Nate Weitzel
Nov 27, 2001

I think this route is a good one, with challenging moves, but alas, on my first attempt I blew a clip with slack out and took a big whipper on the first two bolts you spoke of........ not the recommended way to climb this one!
By Anonymous Coward
May 1, 2002

I also like this route, Richard. Haven't done it since the early 90's, but it was definitely one of my fav's at The Bank. The crux moves into the undercling are tricky and fun...

And yes, the line of weakness the leads one to the left/ arete does make the route considerably easier.
By tim naylor
Mar 18, 2004

Loose start and long reaches. My wife is 5'4", and the moves looked to be about .12+ for her. A good S.G. "classic".
By Tom C
Jan 18, 2006

This route is most [definitely] two stars.
By Stubby-Ian
From: Denver, CO
Oct 6, 2006

Cool moves at the crux, but most of the rest of the route is kinda' boring. If you do it totally direct, straight up the bolt line it definitely makes it more fun and keeps it in the 11c/d range.
By Dan Foster
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 17, 2014

Felt like a nice 2-3 star route in the mid-5.11 range, but the cowboy bolt placement was a major detractor. Rebolting the bottom half would help add another moderate to this area, since a fall in that zone would almost certainly have groundfall potential. Unfortunately not recommended for anyone who can't solidly lead 5.11 (i.e. 5.12 climbers).