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Ice Conditions in 2006
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Jan 4, 2006
Rack
I would be greatly interested in hearing about current ice conditions throughout the region. The warm/dry weather spell at the end of 05 has me concerned. I don't want to get up at 3:00am to travel a couple of hours only to find melt out or desiccated ice. Perhaps climbers could use this forum to post current conditions, much like Malcolm did on the old format. Cheers to a New Year. phil broscovak
Joined Apr 27, 2002
1,616 points
Jan 10, 2006
Rack
Climbed Hidden Falls [RMNP] on 1/7/6 and Lincoln Falls [Hooiser Pass] on 1/8/6. Both waterfalls were in nicely. Lots of thick ice, pillars and curtains and not badly chopped at all. Saturday in the Park was clear warm and sunny (on the other side of the valley) but with a cold wind. Sunday on Lincoln was cold and snowy all day with a heinous drive back to Boulder for dessert. Neither location was "crowded" by any stretch of interpretation. Everyone seemed to either get along or get out of the way.
One cautionary note; A first time ice climber took a fall while seconding the upper pitch of the Scottish Gully. He was fine but rope stretch took him below his leashless tools which were left precariously perched in the steeper ice above. His partner had to lower him to an anchorable stance and rap off to retrieve the wayward axes. The scary part was that the moving of the rope knocked loose one of the sharp and pointy unleashed things which, fortunately, fell and stuck into the lower angle snow a foot or so away from the hapless "newbie". To their credit these two really nice dudes handled themselves with aplomb through it all but it could have been "really bad"! The thought of an ice tool tumbling and hurtling down towards a group of people is ugly even for Quentin Tarrentino. Prehaps it would be best to start out with leashed tools.
phil broscovak
Joined Apr 27, 2002
1,616 points
Administrator
Jan 11, 2006
Not that I've been out too much but word is that Vail is doing well, Booth Creek has had ice, Front Range is lean, Silver Plume is rotting out, Clear Creek is hurting, RMNP has ice, All Mixed Up was mostly 13cm screws, Loch Vale has ice but is lean, Necro disappeared, Smear never got fat, area below Notchtop has ice but isn't too fat, Nymph Lake has some ice, Treasure Falls pics look enticing, Ouray has ice.... Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,190 points
Jan 19, 2006
torry peak
Heard Clear Creek is gone. Hope this snow will help a little. James K Purcell
Joined Jun 8, 2004
59 points
Jan 19, 2006
I doubt I'll hear anything good about it with the 60-degree days but is there anything in Boulder Canyon? I have yet to get up there this year.
griz
From lakewood,co
Joined Jan 18, 2006
22 points
Jan 19, 2006
I generally update ice conditions once a week on my website jackrobertsclimbing.com. The information I get is either first-hand or second-hand from friends around the state who get around in areas I don't. Check it out.

Jack
jack roberts
Joined Oct 30, 2002
62 points
Jan 20, 2006
Thanks, Jack. I added it to my Favorites. Good stuff! griz
From lakewood,co
Joined Jan 18, 2006
22 points
Administrator
Jan 20, 2006
There is also a website skywardmountaineering.com that lists Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride ice conditions. Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,190 points
Jan 20, 2006
torry peak
Went to Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Falls looked good, nice for the weekend. Partner bailed so I ended up top rope soloing at Silver Plume, not falling down needs cold. James K Purcell
Joined Jun 8, 2004
59 points
Jan 25, 2006
Storm's comin, we keep climbin.  Wasted all the go...
jack roberts wrote:
I generally update ice conditions once a week on my website jackrobertsclimbing.com. The information I get is either first-hand or second-hand from friends around the state who get around in areas I don't. Check it out. Jack


Jack's site is great for checking conditions! If you're thinking about Wyo for ice here's the scoop. Cody on 1/12-1-17 was unseasonably warm, south-facing ice was taking a beating and some of the lower climbs like Moratorium and Joy After Pain were rotting from the ground up. Joy After Pain is about 40' short of touching down and the mixed bit to get on it was hard and tough to protect. Mean Green and High on Boulder were both in good as usual. Bozos Revenge was also fat. They need cold weather to really build some ice up there. We stayed off the south-facing stuff altogether. Bears are waking up so take your running shoes and bear spray. Remember you don't have to outrun the bear, just your partners. Check out coldfear.com for current conditions.
Alan Searcy
From Pine, Colorado
Joined May 20, 2003
433 points
Jan 27, 2006
RMNP 06
Climbed Fish Creek Falls outside of Steamboat a couple weeks ago and it was still very thin towards the top. It was more snow than ice. Punched through a couple times towards the top and got a great view of the wet void. Only got 1 screw in barely off the deck. Needs a lot more time. Kyle C. Hanson
Joined Apr 8, 2004
26 points
Nov 8, 2006
Hey I'm heading up to Longs Peak next week and was wondering if anyone has any beta on the ice up there. ErikJohnson
From Fort Colllins
Joined Nov 8, 2006
57 points
Nov 8, 2006
What goes up must come down
In and good Jeff Barnow
From Boulder Co
Joined Aug 30, 2005
110 points
Oct 31, 2007
My friends and I are going to RMNP in a few weeks to do some ice climbing. Anyone know how the ice is forming up in the Loch Vale area? Thanks so much for the info. Josh Koenig
Joined Oct 31, 2007
0 points
Oct 31, 2007
Canadian Rockies Ice 2008.
Josh Koenig wrote:
My friends and I are going to RMNP in a few weeks to do some ice climbing. Anyone know how the ice is forming up in the Loch Vale area? Thanks so much for the info.


Josh, the ice off the trail approaching loch vale was not in 1 week ago. Some ice was just starting to form, but none was touching down or reasonable enough to climb yet without destroying. We need more moisture and freeze/thaw!

(You might consider starting a 2007 thread for this...)
Avery N
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 10, 2006
694 points
Nov 6, 2007
Avery, thanks so much for the info.

Anyone know how Alexanders Chimney or Darkstar are forming up? How about Lamb's Slide? We're thinking about heading to this area in about 10 days. Any info would be great!!! Thanks,

Josh
Josh Koenig
Joined Oct 31, 2007
0 points
Nov 6, 2007
check out climbinglife.com

Avery is right. I would start a current thread. You'd get way more hits.
Enjoy
Jroberts is out of country and probably wont get his site updated for some bit. I would check out Eli's
Good stuff
SAL
From broomdigiddy
Joined Mar 23, 2007
809 points
Nov 6, 2007
Julian Smith
Hey Sal,

Many thanks for sharing the great link. Can't wait until stuff comes in a little better... Take care.
Julian Smith
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,192 points
Administrator
Nov 7, 2007
Josh, Kevin Craig posted a conditions report 10/31/7 on the Alexander's page. Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,190 points
Nov 7, 2007
Canadian Rockies Ice 2008.
Mark started a 2007/08 thread here :

Admins, can you move the Fall 2007 comments (except this one) to that thread?
Avery N
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 10, 2006
694 points


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