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Feb 27, 2011
climbing
well if you read close there is a quote in the guide saying there is enough ice in the unitas for its own guide. plus i heard about the climbs on the miror lake 5 years ago from locals who have been climbing those climbs for 10 or more years. i have been up to those and other climbs in the unintas now a hand full of times and i usually rap of the trees by raping my rope around them and not leaving any garbadge to just rot and thats what those guys do as well!


Clay Borne wrote:
I am sure that the climbs along the Mirror Lake Highway have been climbed. It is even possible that they could have been climbed as early as the 1960's. It seems though, that David Black would have known about this ice and included it in his book (Ice Climbing Utah). David Black did extensive research for the book, and gathered the most accurate information from the most reliable sources. If it had been climbed in the 1960's, I am sure that Jeff Lowe, Doug Coats, Brain Cabe, Brain Smoot, Ted Wilson, or members of the Wasatch Mountain Club would have had information about this and shared it with David Black. I doubt that David would exclude the Mirror Lake Highway area, yet include only Mt. Emmons. It was very nice of MarkEMark to share his photos of the climbs they did. It sounds like a fantastic adventure in a beautiful setting. I hope that more information will surface about these climbs so can all share in the great history of climbing in this area.
climberbum2
From Park City, Utah
Joined Dec 9, 2010
12 points
Feb 27, 2011
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
David Black didn't list quite a few climbs in his book(all over Utah). I definitely would not take his book as "the Word". I think it is a good start, and I would never want to take on the task of publishing a guide because I know I would miss a ton of stuff. I have climbed on the Mirror Lake Highway up to 15 years ago. I have climbed in Naturalist basin, that area is amazing. There is Ice on the back side of bald mountain. I am still looking up there because there are going to be some more goldmines to find up there. The great thing about Ice is that you can climb it and leave no sign of your climb so that future parties can climb the same climb and have a first ascent type experience. Some of the other climbs in Utah used to be like this until bolts appeared on them for anchors- it takes from the experience.
Dallen
Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Joined Aug 2, 2006
460 points
Feb 27, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Sunny-D wrote:
David Black didn't list quite a few climbs in his book(all over Utah).


I think it was a pretty good effort, though. He went with the beta he had from folks that were willing to share. And, he ran into more than a few folks who didn't want to divulge their areas.

He spent a fair amount of time on it. Did a pretty good job of soliciting for information. I think since its been published (over ten years ago now), some stuff has become known, or, folks have come out of the woodwork with information. Will it ever be updated? Hard to say.

Sunny-D wrote:
Some of the other climbs in Utah used to be like this until bolts appeared on them for anchors- it takes form the experience. Dallen


It sure can. Especially when you show up at an area and there's four topropes set up and only one party climbing on them...and no one actually climbing the routes to the top. Sound familiar? Ha ha.

Too funny...cheers!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,997 points
Feb 27, 2011
Me in the 70's
2-26-11, note the extra pitches!  click to enlarge...
2-26-11, note the extra pitches! click to enlarge.
bsmoot
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,862 points
Mar 2, 2011
Climb to top of pitch 5 yesterday 3/1/11. All pitches were in great except for the last 6 feet of pitch 5. The top out was a bit worse than the usual limestone scratchfest. Detached and thin, delicate to say the least. Pitch 6 wasn't in and 7 is still a dagger or JUST touched down.

Even with the warm weather it was solidly refrozen in the AM. We were off by 2PM and it was just starting to get drippy.

Lost a petzl attache 3D somewhere up there.
cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
239 points
Mar 4, 2011
Anyone seen Stairway or Bridalveil in the last couple days? Wondering how they are holding up.

Thanks.
J.M.L.
Joined Dec 9, 2009
0 points
Mar 4, 2011
my better side
Bridal Veil Left is fractured near the top and Bridal Veil Right had a fracture near the bottom this morning. White Nightmare still looks climbable. Didn't get a great look at Stairway this morning but from what I saw it still looked good up to 3 pitches, maybe more. jtwalter
From Orem, UT
Joined Jun 28, 2006
844 points
Mar 4, 2011
Anyone free to climb GWI this afternoon? nateclimb
Joined Sep 11, 2008
5 points
Mar 5, 2011
climbing
climberbum2 wrote:
well if you read close there is a quote in the guide saying there is enough ice in the unitas for its own guide. plus i heard about the climbs on the miror lake 5 years ago from locals who have been climbing those climbs for 10 or more years. i have been up to those and other climbs in the unintas now a hand full of times and i usually rap of the trees by raping my rope around them and not leaving any garbadge to just rot and thats what those guys do as well!

i agree and i dont mean to be rash but i have talked to a few people about the unitas and im positive there is climbs yet to be climbed so any one up for a plane ride?
climberbum2
From Park City, Utah
Joined Dec 9, 2010
12 points
Mar 29, 2011
Ouray...
I thought I'd share with the local community my ode to Salt Lake Valley's favorite, and most committing, ice climbing destination. Sit back and enjoy...

jnrose5
Joined Feb 21, 2006
21 points


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