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Ice climbing conditions
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By Brian in SLC
Jan 21, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Darren Knezek wrote:
My friend Dustin did a first ascent to the left of Hog Jowls, right behind the mini totem pole. Way fun, but that one really rarely comes in.


Any idear what he called it?

Stick 'er in the database! I should toss a few more in too...


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By josh holmes
Jan 21, 2011
a picture of rocks

Any beta on the stuff up around Roadkill Wall?
Or the Middle Fork?


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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Jan 22, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton

Left and right side of Bridal Veil is down. In the early morning light it looked like White Nightmare was still standing.

Stairway, including the apron has taken a beating, but there is still plenty to climb. That said you won't be getting too high. The second and third pitches still looked climbable.

We did some laps this morning (Jan 22) on the apron and then climbed some short mixed lines on the right side.


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By Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Jan 30, 2011
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this pic was snapped : )

Had to drive up to Willard and checked out Willard Canyon Falls since I was in the area. It's thin, but there's ice and plenty of water flowing. A couple of cold days should help. Sorry, didn't have a camera with me. More or less, same thing for the mouth of Ogden Canyon.


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By Brian in SLC
Jan 31, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

josh holmes wrote:
Any beta on the stuff up around Roadkill Wall?


Did a couple routes last year just left of Grease Bunny, in the wide slot groove feature. Right hand side was WI3l-ish, 75' to a tree anchor. LH side 45 to anchor, passing a bolted anchor enroute. Maybe WI/M3/4-ish.

Maple today. Wet and warm. Ice not in good shape. Not much change from the pic's posted above. Bowling Ball Head was probably the best piece of ice we saw. The Hooker is almost touching, spicy, but, almost looks "interesting". Seems like most routes have rotted out tops. Frankenchrist is missing 8-10' in the upper 1/3. We climbed Ice Hawk, a route just left of the Low Standard Cave. In decent shape (short, 45' or so, WI4+-ish). Skidders/Yellow Rapture look really thin in their lower halfs. Running Man looks thin in the middle and lower bit, but, kinda doable. Tennis Shoe slab is melted out up high, think down low but wet. Cobble Cruncher looked way thin up high. Sandbagger rotted out. Rubber Cup Nausea thin up high. Anorexia almost nothing. Bottomless/Topless less than a 1/5 down.


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By mountainsense
Feb 2, 2011

GWI update: A customer dropped by IME to tell us that the Icicle was in good condition, though the lower-angled bits still seemed thin and hollow-sounding. S


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By Price
From SLC, UT
Feb 3, 2011

mountainsense wrote:
GWI update: A customer dropped by IME to tell us that the Icicle was in good condition, though the lower-angled bits still seemed thin and hollow-sounding. S


Did GWI last night. The top pitch was flowing and pretty slushy (read: would not hold a screw worth a damn, but the sticks were deep). The rest was in and thick. Probably better by this morning with the cold temps last night.


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By Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Feb 3, 2011
hardcore bouldering

Went up and did the first pitch of the Fang on Tuesday (the 1st). The ice was brittle, detached up at the top of the first, and still flowing underneath. The tube on the fang proper was nowhere near closing, and the second pitch looked even worse than the first, so we just bailed.


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By Christian Knight
From Provo, UT
Feb 4, 2011

I did both pitches of White Nightmare this morning. Conditions were excellent. Tons of ice over by bridal veil. The halfway anchors on Bridal Veil Right were buried. Looks like you can go up 5 pitches on Stairway, 5th pitch looks a bit thin in the midsection though.


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By Mark D Evans
From Sandy, UT
Feb 10, 2011
Enjoying the view from the top.

Maple Ice 2/6/11

Bottomless Topless
Bottomless Topless


The Dagger
The Dagger


Cobble Cruncher
Cobble Cruncher


Maple Syrup
Maple Syrup


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By Mark D Evans
From Sandy, UT
Feb 10, 2011
Enjoying the view from the top.

Unknown Uinta Ice on the Mirror Lake Hwy back in early January.

Ice on Mirror Lake Hwy
Ice on Mirror Lake Hwy


Uinta ice
Uinta ice


Unknown WI4-ish routes in the Uintas. Nick and Marcus on the sharp end.
Unknown WI4-ish routes in the Uintas. Nick and Marcus on the sharp end.


Allen
Allen


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By Loweball
Feb 10, 2011

Holy hell, MarkEMark! I'm getting on aplane right now! How far east of Kamas is that? Can you see it from the road?

(Being sensitive, of course, to secret areas and such; totally understand if you don't want to give it up!)


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By Mark D Evans
From Sandy, UT
Feb 11, 2011
Enjoying the view from the top.

Yeah it was about 3.5 miles past the end of the road (in winter). Its on the left side of the road a bit past Soapstone. I don't think the area has been devloped yet, but it has potential. We had to build rap anchors on the routes we did, so bring some gear. Happy Sending!


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By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Feb 12, 2011

FYI, Frozen Assests looked in from the highway...go check it out.
Also, anyone living in cedar city or st. george, what's the story on the ice on the west side of the highway (near mile 37 and 44)? Looked like some cool slabs and pillars?


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By bsmoot
Feb 13, 2011
Me in the 70's

Went down to Santiquin today...Automatic & Angel of Fear were not in, but Candelstick was in great condition. Several of the climbs across the canyon were also in.


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By Loweball
Feb 15, 2011

Climbed in Maple on 2/11 (for the first time), and I know ya gotta get the conditions posted quick before that place goes off its medication, so I apologize for the delay. Mostly, though, I really wanted to give a shout out to the super-friendly and helpful local folks who freely gave positive direction and info to the guys from Colorado who had successfully forgotten their guidebook.

And MarkEMark, thanks for the beta on the Kamas ice. Didn't get a chance to get back there, but maybe next season.

So, as of 2/11:
Dagger: In, but getting a full-on natural tan by 11:30 a.m.
Cobble Cruncher: In, thin up high but manageable.
Maple Syrup: In, but brittle up high and all of Ice 6 (and maybe the best single pitch of ice ever).
Box Canyon Falls: Fat.
Frozen Lizards: Not.
Golden Plum: In.
Maple Corners: Not. Not.
Maple Moon: Very, very thin from the start to about half way, then probably just unprotectable.
Tennis Shoe Slab: You could probably link the ice blobs between the cobbles, but we'll never know. We kept walking.
Get Whacked: In and hooked up quite a bit, but still a good pump test. Top was getting baked by late morning.


Thanks again. Maple is awesome.


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By Brian in SLC
Feb 15, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Loweball wrote:
Maple Syrup: In, but brittle up high and all of Ice 6 (and maybe the best single pitch of ice ever).


Concur, really a neat pitch.

Folks should realize that the season is wrapping up, and, we've seen super warm temps, and, not much in the way of freezing since before last weekend. Hit 61 last weekend in SLC, and, I'm sure Maple has been in the upper 40's/low 50's at least. That's a bunch of heat. Might not recover.

Take care.


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By Wyatt H
From Casper, Wy
Feb 22, 2011

Anybody know the coditions of the stuff by cedar city?


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By climberbum2
From Park City, Utah
Feb 24, 2011
climbing

MarkEMark wrote:
Yeah it was about 3.5 miles past the end of the road (in winter). Its on the left side of the road a bit past Soapstone. I don't think the area has been devloped yet, but it has potential. We had to build rap anchors on the routes we did, so bring some gear. Happy Sending!

hay people have been climbing on those for years they probably all gt climbed in the 60s alot of ice in the unintas thats the easyest to get to though never seems to be in very good went there yesterday climbed preaty roten now maby it will come back but doubtfull.


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By Nick Mazzocchi
From Ann Arbor, MI
Feb 25, 2011

Anyone have updated ice conditions on Great White Icicle or something else around a WI3-WI4 grade? I'm going to be in town march 4th-9th and would love to get out.

Conditions would be greatly appreciated!!

thanks,

Nick


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By Brian in SLC
Feb 25, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Clay Borne wrote:
I am sure that the climbs along the Mirror Lake Highway have been climbed.


I'd heard about it when I moved here in '85, and, skied up there around then to look for it, but, wasn't in that particular time.


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By Brian in SLC
Feb 25, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Nick Mazzocchi wrote:
Anyone have updated ice conditions on Great White Icicle or something else around a WI3-WI4 grade? I'm going to be in town march 4th-9th and would love to get out. Conditions would be greatly appreciated!!


We're in a pretty moist flow right now...so...consider that and March temps usually pop up quite a bit.

Geez, Clay Borne, didn't I see you on the road on Tuesday night by the GWI? How many laps you get on that rig a season?


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By paintrain
Feb 25, 2011
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero

If it was Kenny G coming through the doors and windows, It was Brian in SLC behind the wheel.

He should consider "Smooth Jazz" as his forum handle.

PT


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By Brian in SLC
Feb 25, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Yeah, well, I got some moist flow for ya right here...

Har har.

My musical tastes run a bit more to the angry side.


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By Price
From SLC, UT
Feb 25, 2011

Clay Borne wrote:
Nick, I was on the GWI last night. Conditions are good on the climb. It is basically a ladder now, not much of a need to swing tools or kick steps. I hope that temperatures will stay favorable for your visit. Enjoy!



Clay, may I assume this includes the 4th(top) pitch? I'm guessing the gully is nice and full of snow for the descent.


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