Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ice climbing conditions
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 2 of 4.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Rob Alexander
From Alta
Dec 29, 2010
on rappel
Any ice updates?

FLAG
By Tyler King
From Salt Lake, UT
Dec 29, 2010
Touch Up
Went to Joe's Valley on Monday:

CCC Falls pitch one is in decent shape:

Dallen on CCC Falls, P1
Dallen on CCC Falls, P1


Pitch 2 on the other hand is a bit thin. No one in or group was willing to lead it:

Tyler TR'ing CCC Falls, P2
Tyler TR'ing CCC Falls, P2


The Donorcicle was pretty thick but has detached and moved a few inches. We didn't climb it...

Donorcicle, seperated at top
Donorcicle, seperated at top


The Highway to Heaven was low on ice and the rope up pitch was pretty rotten. Glad Dallen was leading!

Dallen Leading in the Highway to Heaven
Dallen Leading in the Highway to Heaven


Nothing else was in enough to climb...

FLAG
By Tyler King
From Salt Lake, UT
Dec 30, 2010
Touch Up
Fixed my pics ^

FLAG
By Kiwi
From Stansbury Park, UT
Jan 1, 2011
Climbed up Great white icicle today, it wasn't all there, but it was easily climbable. Second pitch was really thin, and the last pitch pillar wasn't in, but everything is filling in nicely. I also got a look at scruffy band on the way up, its not quite there yet. So unless you have some major mixed skills it would be wise to stay away from that one.

FLAG
By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Jan 5, 2011
Just back from Provo.
Stairway is in through 5. Fang, finger of fate and millers are in but still small.

Climbed White Nightmare and the 1st mixed route to the right, both are great.
Bridal veil right is in nicely. Left is in, looked steep and chandeliered at the bottom.

FLAG
By climberbum2
From Park City, Utah
Jan 5, 2011
climbing
any one been to santaquin?

FLAG
By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Jan 5, 2011
friends where there 2 days ago. Climbed Ricochet and said that squash head and backoff where just about good to go.

FLAG
By meyerx
Jan 5, 2011
Anyone in the know on Maple Canyon conditions?

FLAG
 
By PAS
Jan 10, 2011
Climbed in Provo Canyon on Friday and it is on for sure. I do not have pictures and realize that in and climbable are often two different things. Everything is touching, although some pitches are still chandelier. There is free-hanging ice above P5 and the Stump chimney on six appears to be ice. We did the BR right & White Knightmare circuit and they took good screws. Everything from the Fang down canyon is connected in a classic sense, as it appeared from road.

FLAG
By Eric Bonin
Jan 10, 2011
my dog
New to UT ice...Was wondering if there is any top ropable stuff near SLC?? Want to get out and most definitely can't lead ice yet.
Thanks

FLAG
By Kiwi
From Stansbury Park, UT
Jan 10, 2011
If you want to toprope, the stairway to heaven is the place to go. The first pitch is super wide, and there are a few set anchors on top.

FLAG
By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Jan 12, 2011
Looking for some info from those that might know. We climbed this.

To the right of Scruffy.
To the right of Scruffy.


It's in the quartzite between Scruffy and Table Scraps. Not in the book or on MP. Really faded slings on the tree at the top. Easy mixed rock to good ice. Worth doing.

FLAG
By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Jan 12, 2011
I don't think it's the Dagger. The Dagger is straight up from Scruffy and once through the actual "dagger" there is an additional 200'ish of ice. It is forming up as well.

FLAG
By Brian in SLC
Jan 13, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Its not "Not My Fault" is it?

I seem to dimly recall Tyler or someone that's done something in that area. Luke?

There were photo's of someone on it a year or three ago?

Yeah, the dagger route is to the right of Contact Gully. Brian Smoot oughta add that one into the database.

Edit to add: that upper route is in the database as "Upper Dagger".

Edit to add: Carl Page posted this a couple years ago on utahclimbers:

If you are asking about the red one inch webbing around a pretty good sized pine tree above the Hanging Pillar, we left that webbing. What a great ice year this has been. We where able to climb in that area four or five times this year, we get out every Wednesday morning before work and then when we can. When we first slung the tree we left two lever biners. Later we replaced the biners with a Mailon Screw Link. We had one comical experience; Bill Rosqvist started the Pillar low and to climbers right as a traverse. His right axe was set well and high as he started moving left until his right arm was fully extended. He then set his left ax as far left as he could reach. While trying to get his right ax out his crampons slipped and he looked as if he was being crucified. It was a great laugh watching him get himself out of that situation.

So, red webbing with a rapide on that tree?

FLAG
By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Jan 13, 2011
No not it either. Not in a chimney by any means. The pillar forms on the right side of an overhanging Quartzite wall and is well west of the seam where the granite and Quartzite meet.
Slings where sewn Bluewater and 9/16th webbing no biners or rapide.
Here's a closer look.
ICe
ICe

FLAG
By bsmoot
Jan 15, 2011
Me in the 70's
Merrill Bitter climbed this back in the 80's

How did you like the climb?

FLAG
 
By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Jan 16, 2011
Thanks, Brian.
It was fun. Easy insecure rock and thin ice on the slabs to a great, short pillar. Certainly worth the short walk over from Scruffy.
The overhanging face below the daggers to the left is nicely featured. If someone wanted to do a little work one or two short new mixed routes would make it a nice little crag.
One other interesting tid bit. We removed a decent looking but faded Bluewater sewn sling from the tree at the top and had it pulled at BD for fun. It broke at 6KN. Enough to rap from but no where near the 22 it is rated at.
Watch that tat!

FLAG
By Brian in SLC
Jan 16, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Brian, what did Carl do in that area? Any idear?

Cheers!

FLAG
By Brian in SLC
Jan 16, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Quick update on routes we scoped from the road in Provo Canyon (1-15-11):

Fang: tube pitch looked like it wasn't all the way down, but, formed kinda on the backside, but, front was still pukin' water and not formed. Lower pitches looked wet but in.

Miller's Thriller: first pitch had a break in it which was high flow open water. Wetsuit?

Finger of Fate: looked very anemic and not formed.

Bridal Veil Left: super wet but in.

Bridal Veil Right: wet, in, sticky, and easy climbing conditions.

White Nightmare: very in, all the way up. Wet in the lower 1/3, then, nicer up high.

Stairway: 4th pitch looks bad and maybe not that doable. Other pitches looked formed.

GWI from late last week: Sticky and wet but fully in. Loosing bulk in the heat and rain, though, so, take care.

FLAG
By bsmoot
Jan 17, 2011
Me in the 70's
Brian in SLC wrote:

Brian, what did Carl do in that area? Any idear?

No idea, his despription doesn't match the Upper Dagger route/descent.

FLAG
By Alec
Jan 20, 2011
Stairway to Heaven, pitch three, Provo Canyon, UT
Any recent updates from LCC or PC? Im guessing it's a bit dicey out there, but I'd like to get out this weekend if anything's left.

FLAG
By josh holmes
Jan 20, 2011
a picture of rocks
Maple Canyon 1/20/11

Get Whacked


Bowling Ball Head


Wet Itchies


Running Man


Cobble Cruncher


The road has recently (after the last big dump) been plowed to the 1st bathroom. Road conditions: about 2-3" of snow on top of ice/dirt. Really slick underneath in places. Coming down could be hairy. Drive up at at your on risk.


Underwraps is in and looks good. Roadside Couloir is missing it's top half. Chicken Limbo looked climbable, but Hog Jowells could use a bit more ice down low. To the left of Hog Jowells is this forming rarity...will it connect?


I am always psyched to get out and climb. Shoot me a pm if your'e heading down this way.
Has anyone been to Joe's?

FLAG
By Brian in SLC
Jan 20, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
I think your photo of "Squash Head" is Cobble Cruncher. When the ice is in typical fat conditions, Cobble Cruncher is usually in and fat. That photo is telling...

Thing to the left of Hog Jowels is the Hooker?

Thanks for the update!

FLAG
By josh holmes
Jan 21, 2011
a picture of rocks
oops! my bad.

FLAG
 
By Darren Knezek
Jan 21, 2011
A route I established at The Overlook called, Photo Opp. Rated 10d.
Thanks for the update!

If The Hooker does come in, after you climb the initial column head up and right and I put in anchors in the only overhanging piece of rock about 60 or more feet past the column. You need two ropes to get down.

My friend Dustin did a first ascent to the left of Hog Jowls, right behind the mini totem pole. Way fun, but that one really rarely comes in.

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 2 of 4.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>