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Ice climbing conditions
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By akafaultline
Nov 23, 2010

THis is stairway to heaven on 11.23.2010, a couple of hours ago. Still thin, but probably climbable later in the week.

stairway to heaven 11.23.2010  4:00 Pm
stairway to heaven 11.23.2010 4:00 Pm

close up
close up


bridal veil
bridal veil


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Nov 23, 2010
Our less than official sponsor!

I wonder if the snow storms this week will make it too dangerous though...


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By atrau
Nov 23, 2010

Thank you to all those in the Utah County area for posting updates on the conditions. I enjoy seeing the pics, and reading what people have to say before I make the drive that direction.

Keep up the good work.

Rob


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By Matthew Smith
Nov 24, 2010
Leading off

The Salt Lake ice super-highway otherwise known as the Great White Icicle is in thin but it goes all the way to the top as of last night (ll/23) and I'm sure the super cold temps today and tomorrow will help too. Let the junk show commence...


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By Brian in SLC
Nov 24, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Matthew Smith wrote:
The Salt Lake ice super-highway otherwise known as the Great White Icicle is in thin but it goes all the way to the top as of last night (ll/23) and I'm sure the super cold temps today and tomorrow will help too. Let the junk show commence...


Where you parking and how was crossing the creek?

Have they plowed that lot yet?

Cheers!


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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Nov 24, 2010
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior

Matthew,
Did you climb the great white Icicle or just look at it?


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By Matthew Smith
Nov 24, 2010
Leading off

We climbed it all the way to the top, 13s and stubbies are all you can get in and placements were sparse. Interesting "mixed" (read: Ice, rock, frozen dirt and tree branches) climbing for the topout. parked on the north side of the road, parking lot is not plowed and still has the "no trespassing/no parking" signs up. The creek is barley a trickle so it's easy to cross ~100ft down canyon from the water building.


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By jtwalter
From Orem, UT
Nov 25, 2010
my better side

As of 2010-11-24 the Dirtcicle is a little thin but climbable. The top out is still sketchy.


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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Nov 25, 2010

I ran up the GWIC this morning. It is in fine shape. The first pitch is a slightly soggy. A bit of a wallow between the first and part way up the second pitch. Thin in places but the top out is in fine shape. The nice part, barely a pick mark on the route. But that will change quickly.


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By LeviK
Nov 27, 2010

I saw climbers on The Dirtsicle and Stairway to Heaven this morning, 11/27. Stairway still looked thin, but climbable. and some of the ice further up canyon was coming in nicely.


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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Nov 27, 2010
Belaying on the Grand Teton

November 27, 2010.

Bridal Veil Falls
Bridal Veil Falls


Stairway to Heaven
Stairway to Heaven


Zoomed in, left side first pitch Stairway to Heaven
Zoomed in, left side first pitch Stairway to Heaven


FMR Wall, Upper Canyon
FMR Wall, Upper Canyon


The Fang, Upper Canyon
The Fang, Upper Canyon


Right Side, First pitch of Stairway to Heaven
Right Side, First pitch of Stairway to Heaven


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By Nathan Smith
From Salt Lake City
Nov 27, 2010

Climbed in Provo on 11/26. White Nightmare, Left and Right Bridalveil are all climbable for both pitches. Hit Great White this morning, 11/27. Pretty plastic and wet throughout, with a thin topout but it's all there.


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By Matt Jesperson
Nov 28, 2010
Sunrise on the summit of Cotopaxi, Ecuador.

Went to Joe's today. All of CCC falls was in. Ice was a bit brittle, but very fun to get out ice climbing again. The only other route that looked close to being in was Donoricle (sp?). We climbed around the lower parts of Donoricle, the upper two-thirds of the pillar was too delicate to climb and had water showering down the surface. Also, the lower curtain on Deadbolt was about halfway down to the ground.

Dirtsicle was thin, but in.


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By LeviK
Nov 29, 2010

Just a heads up:


UDOT AVALANCHE CONTROL WORK
Provo Cyn will have 15 min. closures tommorrow from 10am to 1pm to sight in artillery. Stay clear of ice climbs until after 1pm
Closure Time:
Tuesday, November 30, 2010 - 10:00am
Anticipated Re-Opening:
Tuesday, November 30, 2010 - 1:00pm


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By Tim Banfield
From Calgary, Alberta
Nov 29, 2010

Does anyone have beta on Maple Canyon ice? I was wondering if anything is in. Driving from Colorado to Vegas and was thinking about checking it out for a day.

Thanks in advance
Tim


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By jtwalter
From Orem, UT
Nov 30, 2010
my better side

Soft 'n Juicy looks good from the road.

Soft 'n Juicy and Shower Tower from the road. 2010-11-30
Soft 'n Juicy and Shower Tower from the road. 2010-11-30


All good on Bridal Veil.
Bridal Veil Left, Bridal Veil Right and White Nightmare. 2010-11-30
Bridal Veil Left, Bridal Veil Right and White Nightmare. 2010-11-30


The pillar on the third pitch of the fang looks like it's fallen.
The Fang 2010-11-30
The Fang 2010-11-30


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Dec 4, 2010
Our less than official sponsor!

As of 12/4:

Icemate/Playmate: Looks good enough.

Unnamed WI2: Rotten but there.

Daily Fears: Looks to be held up by bushes.

Stairway: Getting thin and rotten. Left side of first pitch is still ok. Higher up are very scary broken pillars that are ready to kill you in a few seconds.

Bridal Veil: Left is so-so. White Nightmare is still ok. Right looks the best of just about everything.

All is Quiet: Is there but looks rotten.

Finger of Fate: Thin...doesn't look like the pillar is touching.

Best part of the day was the Bald Eagle that flew by 20 feet from us! Better than a double rainbow!


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Dec 7, 2010

Just drove down LCC got a look at the ice. We're starting over. Scruffy Band has all but melted out. GWI is unclimbable with huge holes and water everywhere. With the weather that's predicted we should be back to zero by the end of the week


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By akafaultline
Dec 15, 2010

Drove by stairway today. The temps were in the 20's and the ice is beginning to form again. Perhaps the lower pitch (apron) will be in by this weekend. The ice was forming the most on the eastern side of the apron as well. If I go snowboarding again, I will update the conditions as I drive by.


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By Kai Larson
From Sandy, Utah
Dec 21, 2010
Tour Ronde North Face

It's been really warm. Raining at the mouth of LCC.

I drove over Soldier's Summit outside of Price on Sunday night (Dec 19th) and it was raining heavily there too.


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By akafaultline
Dec 21, 2010

i drove by stairway on monday-the ice is starting over again. I should be drving by today as well.


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By jnrose5
Dec 21, 2010
Ouray...

I went out to GWI this afternoon just to look. I know, there was no chance it was going to be frozen, but I still went to look. So sad. Not even close; just a gushing, beautiful waterfall surrounded by snow. I'm guessing this is pretty much the case for everything in the state right now.

I'm considering heading out to the GWI, and just politely asking it (and the rest of the climbs in Utah) to consider freezing. Anyone want to join me? We can just sit and wait and drink beer until it freezes. That would be nice.


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By akafaultline
Dec 21, 2010

Drove by stairway again today (12.21), There was so much snow it was kind of hard to tell how thick the ice as was at first. The ice is still thin. I think in 2-3 days, as long as the temps stay cold the apron should come in. There was virtually nothing (no ice) formed on the upper pitches. Sad.


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By LeviK
Dec 22, 2010

The dirtsicle was in when I drove past this afternoon. It's been above freezing in Joe's the last 3 or 4 days. Anyone driven through Upper Weber canyon lately? Croyden area? there's a couple smears that come in occasionally.


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By Kiwi
From Stansbury Park, UT
Dec 25, 2010

I hiked up to the base of GWI yesterday (12-24) and it's gone. There is the thinest possible sheet if ice on it, but for the most part there is nothing. If the temperature drops a little it should be thin but climbable by the end of the week. I will be heading up again on Thursday or Friday to update the conditions on stairway to heaven and bridal veil.


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By Shiho
Dec 26, 2010

Went to Santaquin today (12/25). It was worse than the last time I went there (12/17). There was nothing climbable. I didn't have a camera this time, but here is a pic of Squash head as of 12/17.


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