Ice Climb 5.9+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | spring & fall |
| Submitted By: | Gary Savage on Feb 7, 2007 |
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Grant Hiskes o "Ice Climb". Photo by Blitzo.
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Description Delicate frictioning will get you past a bolt and a fixed pin. A #2 or #3 camalot will provide dubious protection in the alcove for the final moves to the top.
Location The middle route in the center of the slab.
Protection bolt and fixed pin and a #2 or #3 camalot
By CurtisG Mar 31, 2009 rating: 5.10d R
| Move slightly right at the bolt and up to punch a mid sized cam in the back of a shallow triangular pocket/crack. Climb 15 feet and pull hard and technical slab moves at at least 5.10+. Finish the hard stuff more than 20 ft. directly above that 'ok' cam (maybe you're supposed to move back left?) and scamper 15 more feet of slab to the top. Had me pissing myself and I'm used to hard southern illinois slab. |
By Blitzo Dec 17, 2010
| I found the route to be about 10a when we did the second ascent. It seemed a bit heigth dependant. Lynne was having a little trouble on the FA the day before, but she's only around 5'2". |
By Chris Perkins From: Avon, Colorado Mar 24, 2013 rating: 5.10- R
| It must have been a boring day for the first ascensionist. I found the crux to be above the cam in the horizontal. The moves past the bolt and pin seemed easy. One move wonder with consequences. I used a #3 camalot. |
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