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Ice Cave Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angst S 
Dirty Lid T 
Schoolio S 

Ice Cave Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 2,154
Administrators: Bill McKirgan, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jon Lauters on Jan 7, 2008
Forecast:
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Description 

Two routes got chopped on this wall Ice Cave, and Ice Cave Direct. The main climb on this wall is Schoolio.

Getting There 

Wall starting immediately after the Comic Gallery. If facing the Comic Gallery - on the right side.

Climbing Season

For the Pictured Rocks area.

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Ice Cave Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ice Cave Wall:
Schoolio   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ice Cave Wall

Featured Route For Ice Cave Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Schoolio

Schoolio 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  IA : Pictured Rocks : Ice Cave Wall
Loved or hated, Schoolio climbs the right corner of the Comic Gallery/Ice Cave Wall....[more]   Browse More Classics in IA

Comments on Ice Cave Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By kcomptalon95
May 23, 2010
so maybe im new but what happened to the routes all by the cave entrance? are they still there? dingleberry lane, college try, ice cave direct, and ice cave indirect.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
May 24, 2010
The bolts were pulled many years ago (10-15 or more) because of their proximity to the cave, per the request of the DNR. You can still toprope the routes and I think the bolted anchors are still there, if I recall.
By Bill McKirgan
Administrator
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Jul 17, 2016
What is the name of the trad route to the right of Dirty Lid?
It is off-width and has some good stances for taking a rest.

Top rope setup is not easy. Tough to keep the rope from rubbing the rock when lowering the climber.

We did some mock leads on this route yesterday. The rock is dirty and dusty or muddy depending on when it last rained. There was some poison ivy in the crack and I removed it along with sticks and dry leaves when rappelling after setting up the top rope anchor.

For protection we found a #3 big bro works perfectly at the start and #4 Camelots up to the first good ledge. After that it gets down to #1 or .75. The exit can be protected by a #4.5, and this was part of our top rope anchor. The anchor also included two stout trees, but one had to be redirected off of a small tree to keep the arms of the anchor less than 90-degrees.

I'm aware that limestone can be weak / brittle and that cam placements may fail in a lead fall; so, would it be best to use passive gear like hexes and tri-cams on an actual lead? Do some of you think that leading on limestone is foolish? I've heard lots of opinions and see people starting to look for and lead-climb the old trad climbs in our area. Sadly, no real history is available.

If it's not foolish, it would be good to document the old routes. So, does anyone know the name of the route I am describing?
By Joe Stark
From: Iowa
Jul 17, 2016
From the topo in Shawn Kintzle's Wild Iowa book:

Right of Dirty Lid there are two cracks. The first is called Dingleberry Lane .6 off width crack. The second is College Try .5 off width crack.

There is another crack between the Ice Cave and Balanced Rock that goes at .7. Also one just right of Angst that goes .6. Both are listed as Unknown name.

This is all info taken from an out-of-print guide book and not learned or heard first hand. Use it as you will.
By Bill McKirgan
Administrator
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Jul 17, 2016
Thank you for sharing the route names and rating info Joe.

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