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Ice Box

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Ice S 
Buttress S 
Cold Or Caliente S 
Cool Whip S 
Frosted Flake S 
Frosty The Throwman S 
Fung S 
Glacial Facial S 
Goose Bump S 
Ice Blocks S 
Ice Buckets S 
Ice Chester S 
Ice-Sickler S 
In The Fro Zone S 
Jumping Jack Frost S 
KlonDyke, The S 
My Brother S 
Nippin' Out S 
Pete' Poach S 
Polar Baird S 
Pular Express S 
Reaching The Melting Point S 
Shivering Sphincter, The S 
Shoulda Nona Better S 
Step Into The Freezer S 
Stolen Gem, The S 
Suicide Jack S 
Two Kings And A Queen S 
Whore Frost S 
Ya Bud! S 
Unsorted Routes:

Ice Box  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.26781, -103.9207 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,636
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Cameron Luth on May 28, 2007  with updates from Brent Larsen
Forecast:
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Description 

This is a little canyon also know as Hellsgate Gulch. It was one of the first areas developed in Spearfish Canyon. The climbing is good and at one time, some of the climbs you will need a little bit of pro. Now virtually all routes are safely bolted and you can leave the gear at home. Most of the climbs are short and to the point and are worth climbing at least once.

Getting There 

To get here drive to Cheyenne Crossing towards Newcastle, Wyoming past Sunshine parking. Pull into the hellsgate picnic area that is next to a creek. Walk across the road to the cliffs about a minute away.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.5 miles from here

30 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',8],['5.11',11],['5.12',10],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ice Box:
The KlonDyke   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   
Black Ice   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   
Cold Or Caliente   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 60'   
Pete' Poach   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   
Glacial Facial   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Ya Bud!   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Pular Express   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 75'   
Ice Chester   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
Reaching The Melting Point   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 60'   
Step Into The Freezer   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   
Polar Baird   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   
Goose Bump   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 45'   
Browse More Classics in Ice Box

Featured Route For Ice Box
His balls are made of snow.

Frosty The Throwman 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  SD : Spearfish Canyon : Ice Box
Shovel and grovel your way up using small, tricky feet, wicked sidepulls and hard to calculate gymnastic movements. Get yourself set up on small, overhung holds to make a throw that might have you waving your arms like a freaked out snow angel....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Ice Box Slideshow Add Photo
Ice Buckets, 5.8+ (left) <br />The Shivering Sphincter, 5.10c (right)
Ice Buckets, 5.8+ (left)
The Shivering Sphincter, ...
Map of Ice Box
Map of Ice Box
The sign in the parking lot.
The sign in the parking lot.
Mike Cronin enjoys roadside climbing at its finest at Spearfish Canyon's Ice Box crag. <br /> <br />In this picture, Mike is climbing Two Kings And A Queen, 5.11c. <br /> <br />This route is located on the left-hand side of the crag and can easily be seen from the semi-circular, dirt parking lot by the creek across the highway.
Mike Cronin enjoys roadside climbing at its finest...
Lower right hand side south west facing wall of Ice Box.
Lower right hand side south west facing wall of Ic...
Lower Ice Box. <br /> <br />The Ice Box now has a slew of New Skool climbs on a small, powerful wall just a bit down the road. These are four, fine 5.12's just aching to freeze you in your tracks.
Lower Ice Box.

The Ice Box now has a slew of New ...
Ice Box routes in The Alcove: <br /> <br />From left to right: <br /> <br />Jumping Jack Frost, 5.11c <br /> <br />Climber is on Ice Blocks, 5.11a <br /> <br />Ice Buckets, 5.8+ <br /> <br />The Shivering Sphincter, 5.10c <br /> <br />Nippin' Out, 5.12a
Ice Box routes in The Alcove:

From left to right:...
Lower Ice Box. <br /> <br />Just a bit farther down the road from the parking lot is this stout, black wall with two epic climbs just waiting for your attention. The rope and draws are hung on Whore Frost, 5.12a <br /> <br />This climb, along with about a dozen other new developments have turned Ice Box into an all day climbing destination that requires very little hiking from your car or between climbs.
Lower Ice Box.

Just a bit farther down the road f...
Carl crushing Ice Chester, 5.12c
Carl crushing Ice Chester, 5.12c
Ice Box warm ups.
Ice Box warm ups.
Ice Box. Flag Ship Wall. South west facing routes located on upper right-hand side of the crag. <br /> <br />1. Glacial Facial, 5.11a. Sustained. Sequential. Strong moves. <br /> <br />2. Reaching The Melting Point, 5.12b. Classic climbing! Overhung! A crack start leads to technical pulling to big jugs to a long, sustained crux on technical holds till the end. <br /> <br />3) Pular Express, 5.11d. Side pull Heaven with a roof from Hell. <br /> <br />4) Polar Baird, 5.12c. Best for the grade in this immediate area. <br /> <br />4.1) Sub-Zero Hero. Four bolt kids climb on a short, slabby, black rock.  <br /> <br />4.5) Jumping Jack Frost, 5.11+. Sick undercling to pumpy, huge holds! <br /> <br />4.75) Ice Buckets, 5.11a. Finger crack to jugs! <br /> <br />5) Ice Buckets, 5.8. Great beginner climb with HUGE holds and a big pump. <br /> <br />6) The Shivering Sphincter, 5.10c. A hard start leads to semi-slabby climbing with big moves to big holds. <br /> <br />6.5) Nippin' Out, 5.12a. Starts near Cold or Caliente and traverses left on wild holds over a sick roof! Shares anchors with The Shivering Sphincter to the left. <br /> <br />7) Cold Or Caliente, 5.10d. Sick crux moves! Sweet roof pull.
Ice Box. Flag Ship Wall. South west facing routes ...
The slightly south-east facing routes of the left hand side of The Ice Box crag. <br /> <br />From left to right; <br /> <br />Fung, 5.12a Bolted overhung boulder problem. <br /> <br />My Brother, Six bolts of 5.11b climbing. <br /> <br />Wide Rider, Project, <br /> <br />Surge, Project <br /> <br />NEW ROUTE! 5.11c <br /> <br />Shoulda Nona Better, 5.11a <br /> <br />NEW ROUTE! 5.10d. <br /> <br />Suicide Jack, 5.11d. Sandbagged and fun! <br /> <br />Two Kings and a Queen, 5.11c. Seven bolts of sick, sequential, hold onto your cards climbing! <br /> <br />The KlonDyke, 5.10a. Fun five ten minus moves on an overhung face to a sweet arete with big holds. <br /> <br />Frosted Flake, 5.10b. Start on the left side of the flake and stem across to a sick head wall. <br /> <br />Cool Whip, 5.10b. Moderate movement in the middle of the flake leads to a crux in a blonde streak. Mount the flake and enjoy big holds to the anchors. <br /> <br />And yes, that sick, overhung boulder that I keep referencing probably has 3 problems that max out at V3. <br />
The slightly south-east facing routes of the left ...
A view of the primo wall at Ice Box. <br />Contains the classic climbs, Glacial Facial, 5.11a, Reaching the Melting Point, 5.12b, Pular Express, 5.11d, and Polar Baird, 5.12c.
A view of the primo wall at Ice Box.
Contains the ...
Climbing at The Ice Box in April.
Climbing at The Ice Box in April.
Roadside cragging with great hangs! <br />Ice Box Rocks!
Roadside cragging with great hangs!
Ice Box Rocks!
Ice Box Climbs that are to the right of the Flagship Wall and right on the road. <br /> <br />From Left to Right: <br /> <br />Yeah Bud!, 5.12a <br /> <br />The Stolen Gem, 5.10a <br /> <br />Buttress, 5.11a <br /> <br />Pete's Poach, 5.11a <br /> <br />Climber is on Goose Bump, 5.12d <br /> <br />In The Fro Zone, 5.10d <br /> <br />For a fun variation, stick clip the second bolt of Goose Bump, climb the layback crack to the right and work your way to In The Fro Zone. Call it "Goose In The Zone"
Ice Box Climbs that are to the right of the Flagsh...

Comments on Ice Box Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mikel Cronin
Aug 4, 2008
What routes were pulled? I know of 2 or 3 on the right side of the draw that were pulled but there should be 3 or 4 on both sides that still have bolts.
By Brent Larsen
From: Spearfish, SD
Nov 10, 2013
There are some sick new routes at Ice Box now. The Canyon Crew's future plans to renovate some older climbs with new hardware will soon make this area one of the best roadside crags in South Dakota. Come check this place out!
By M. Lynn Larsen
May 10, 2014
The general info page reflects an outdated view on the Icebox area. It should be updated to include the caliber of change that has gone on in the area for the past 2 years. It is now an enjoyable place to hang out and climb without the commitment of a long hike.
By Brent Larsen
From: Spearfish, SD
May 11, 2014
Leave the trad gear in your vehicle. As of this year Ice Box is officially a pure sport climbing area with modern bolts and brand new hardware.