Icarus 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Bruce Hildenbrand & Ron Olsen, 1988? McLaughlin, Detterline, & Guerrieri, 1988? |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on Sep 24, 2010 |
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route has some really fun movement on a fairly steep face, for Lumpy. However, the rock quality is not so good...crumbly feet and flexi-flakes. The bolts/pin leave something to be desired...they are mostly rusted.
Walk off down either side of the formation.
Location Go around to the right from Checkerboard Crack and the large pillar. Look for the wide flake that is the first pitch of Tim's Troubles. Either climb the first pitch of TT or scramble up around to Surrey Ledge. This is the line of bolts on the right. The left line is Checkmate (.11b).
Protection Mostly old bolts (7?) and one old pin, a couple places to put smaller Aliens behind flakes, #0.75-#2 for anchor.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Sep 29, 2012
| To clean up a bit of history on this climb, I did the FA of this route with Ron Olsen. We stumbled on this climb, seeing the three bolts and one fixed pin on the initial headwall. Not knowing what the route was, I climbed up the headwall and then the fixed protection ran out necessitating a 60-foot runout to the top with groundfall potential from 100+ feet up on 5.8 terrain.
As I was bringing up Ron, the party equipping the route came up the trail. They met us at the base and told us that they had started bolting the route over a month ago, but during their last attempt, one of their party had had a bad fall. They were now healed and coming up to finish the route when they ran into us.
They realized that the upper 5.8 slab was unprotected and wanted to place some bolts to protect that climbing. As Ron and I had already done the FA, I made a deal with them that they could place the bolts as long as they credited Ron and I with the FA. This seemed like a reasonable deal as we had, indeed, been the first to lead the route, but the groundfall potential from up high was a real possibility.
And now you know the rest of the story. |
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