||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Bruce Hildenbrand & Ron Olsen, 1988? McLaughlin, Detterline, & Guerrieri, 1988?|
|Page Views: ||174|
|Submitted By: ||eDixon on Sep 24, 2010|
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This route has some really fun movement on a fairly steep face, for Lumpy. However, the rock quality is not so good...crumbly feet and flexi-flakes. The bolts/pin leave something to be desired...they are mostly rusted.
Walk off down either side of the formation.
Go around to the right from Checkerboard Crack
and the large pillar. Look for the wide flake that is the first pitch of Tim's Troubles. Either climb the first pitch of TT or scramble up around to Surrey Ledge. This is the line of bolts on the right. The left line is Checkmate (.11b).
Mostly old bolts (7?) and one old pin, a couple places to put smaller Aliens behind flakes, #0.75-#2 for anchor.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Sep 29, 2012
To clean up a bit of history on this climb, I did the FA of this route with Ron Olsen. We stumbled on this climb, seeing the three bolts and one fixed pin on the initial headwall. Not knowing what the route was, I climbed up the headwall and then the fixed protection ran out necessitating a 60-foot runout to the top with groundfall potential from 100+ feet up on 5.8 terrain.
As I was bringing up Ron, the party equipping the route came up the trail. They met us at the base and told us that they had started bolting the route over a month ago, but during their last attempt, one of their party had had a bad fall. They were now healed and coming up to finish the route when they ran into us.
They realized that the upper 5.8 slab was unprotected and wanted to place some bolts to protect that climbing. As Ron and I had already done the FA, I made a deal with them that they could place the bolts as long as they credited Ron and I with the FA. This seemed like a reasonable deal as we had, indeed, been the first to lead the route, but the groundfall potential from up high was a real possibility.
And now you know the rest of the story.