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Ibex

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Ibex 


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Location: 38.9926, -113.3883 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Andy "RED" King on Feb 5, 2007
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The parking lot scene.

Description 

Most of the info posted here is from the book "A Bouldering Guide to Utah" by Baldwin, Beck, Russo. This is mostly a bouldering area with a few mixed gear, trad and sport routes. This place is epically eerie and seated at the end of a dry desert lake out in the middle of the desert in southern Utah. The boulders are monstrous red quartzite behemoths and since it all sits next to a dead lake it magnifies the feeling of how beautifully desolate and remote this area is. Besides the dead lake the rocks themselves give you an eerie feeling. Some of them are even hollow, completely solid, but they still ring like a bass drum when you bang on them. This is a five star bouldering area if you like to go high.


Getting There 

The easiest way to get there is from Hwy 50. The exit off of the highway is on the right heading east, or on the left heading west, around mile marker 38 or 39, just passed the Ibex Well sign if your heading east. You will know it is the right road because there are two posts at the entrance where you can tell there used to be a sign. follow that dirt road for about 2.1 miles where you will come to a couple stacks of rocks marking the next turn. turn right at the rock piles heading back west. cross the dry lake bed and you pull straight up to the crag.


Climbing Season


88 Total Routes


['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',43],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',11],['5.10',16],['5.11',14],['5.12',11],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',7],['V4-5',5],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ibex:
Right Bouncer   V2 5+     Boulder   Red Monster Area : The Red Monster
Weigh Cattle   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Red Monster Area : The Cow
Topus Arete   V5 6C     Boulder   Topus Mountain : Topus Boulder
Ju   V7 7A+     Boulder   Red Monster Area : The Red Monster
Scorpion Slab   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Corridor : Scorpion Slab
Absorption   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Shadow Buttress
Quartermoon   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   Quartermoon Tower : North Face
Snakeskin   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   Snakeskin Buttress
Moonshine   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Quartermoon Tower : North Face
Rattler’s Arête   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Snakeskin Buttress
Aurora Borealis/Lunar Power   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 450'   Quartermoon Tower : East Face
Tunnel Of Love   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Wind Buttress
Yogini   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Madness Buttress
Huggin' The Hardpan   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   Severity Buttress
Severity Disparity   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   Severity Buttress
Ewe.F.O   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Corral Crags : Ewe For Real Wall
Lakeshore Loon   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   Syringe
Ewe Betch Ewe   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Corral Crags : Ewe For Real Wall
Hardpan Heroics   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Quartermoon Tower : East Face
Rollercoaster   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   South Corridor : Holey Moley Wall
Browse More Classics in Ibex

Featured Route For Ibex
Nose Shadow ascends the right side of the protruding buttress, up the grey rock and through the steepest part of the overhanging front side.

Nose Shadow 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  UT : Ibex : Shadow Buttress
A rad outing, up a proud feature. Be prepared for a plethora of climbing terrain and some memorable pitches on quality stone. P1- Start up the right side of the middle of the Shadow Buttress. You will see bolts beginning about 15 off the deck, leading up a nice slab towards the huge grey roof above. 13 bolts to a nice anchor, 5.11 - techy, thin. ~100 feetP2- A wild, exposed and pumpy pitch out the grey overhang. You will want either long slings or to skip some of the 19 bolts to avoid crippling ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for Ibex
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Upcoming Events
Sep 5Salt Lake Craggin' Classic 2014
Photos of Ibex Slideshow Add Photo
Rosco full speed on the Tule Hardpan at Ibex.
Rosco full speed on the Tule Hardpan at Ibex.
Forever a "Bun-head".
Forever a "Bun-head".
Ibex main crag as seen from the main gravel road. December 24th 2010. Lots of snow that year. I drove out on Christmas eve to go try a boulder problem. The snow was too deep to drive close to the boulders. I hiked across the lake bed in knee deep snow to look at the problem, hiked back to my truck and drove back to slc. I still haven't tried that boulder problem.
Ibex main crag as seen from the main gravel road. ...
Not a toyota ad.
Not a toyota ad.
Overhanging boulder face and dry lake bed. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Overhanging boulder face and dry lake bed.
Photo b...
The "road" going through Blind Valley.
The "road" going through Blind Valley.
Ibex wildlife
Ibex wildlife
Multi-sport day, Ibex style. Fore!
Multi-sport day, Ibex style. Fore!
Ibex!
Ibex!
Overhead view for best directions.  For dry conditions, I recommend pulling off the highway at the first turnoff past Skull Rock Pass and joining the Tule Valley Road.  Once you are directly across from the cliffs, a road takes you across the hardpan to the base of the cliffs.  The hardpan is impassable when wet, so opt for the windy approach to the west.
BETA PHOTO: Overhead view for best directions. For dry condit...
The long road to Ibex and Utah's west desert.
The long road to Ibex and Utah's west desert.
Winding down....
Winding down....
Ibex cliffs. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Ibex cliffs.
Photo by Blitzo.
Gotta love Ibex
Gotta love Ibex
view of of ibex crag.
view of of ibex crag.
Another Ibex bulge... imagine that!
Another Ibex bulge... imagine that!
Sunrise over the hardpan
Sunrise over the hardpan
May PEZ be with you.
May PEZ be with you.
Graham on a V3.
Graham on a V3.
Sunrise from the Tule Hardpan at Ibex.
Sunrise from the Tule Hardpan at Ibex.
Peter V. playing a little midnight hardpan golf.
Peter V. playing a little midnight hardpan golf.
ibex just before sunset
ibex just before sunset
Lawrence of Ibex
Lawrence of Ibex
Starting into the tunnel on another newer Ibex route. Tunnel of Love on the Wind Buttress.
Starting into the tunnel on another newer Ibex rou...
Ibex area. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Ibex area.
Photo by Blitzo.
Ethan on a windy day at <em><a href='/v/ibex/105916340'>Ibex</a></em>.
Ethan on a windy day at Ibex.
j Foote puts up a new route in Utah west desert
j Foote puts up a new route in Utah west desert
An airborne Pika (Jorden Hackney) jumping for joy at the first sighting of the crags!
An airborne Pika (Jorden Hackney) jumping for joy ...
Hardpan golf with James G.
Hardpan golf with James G.
The cliffs above the bouldering at Ibex.
BETA PHOTO: The cliffs above the bouldering at Ibex.
The new entry sign to Ibex.
BETA PHOTO: The new entry sign to Ibex.
You've found it!
You've found it!
West Desert local.
West Desert local.
Saw a few of these little guys.
Saw a few of these little guys.
Hard pan from above the cliffs
Hard pan from above the cliffs
Crystal Peak in the snow.
Crystal Peak in the snow.
Turn here
Turn here
Our warm-up area for the morning- the appropriately named "Newlywed Wall"
BETA PHOTO: Our warm-up area for the morning- the appropriatel...
Super steep and hard looking crack with anchors.  Between Red Monster and Shadow Buttress.
Super steep and hard looking crack with anchors. ...
The epicness of Ibex
The epicness of Ibex
Comments on Ibex Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 25, 2014
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Apr 11, 2007

James Garrett published a guidebook titled “Ibex” that contains fantastic background on the area. Not only does this guide provide route information for Ibex and some other west desert climbs, it includes history, ethical considerations for the area, and a descriptive geology lesson that is unmatched by other guidebooks.

By kellymfa
Apr 23, 2007

James Garrett IBEX guide book is really the best IBEX guide book out there. It's unfortunate that James will be in Africa in the near future and not here putting up great routes.

By Umph!
May 8, 2007

This place is a nightmare!!
Probably the single worst place to spend time on the entire planet!

Poisonous everything imaginable. . . even the rocks, which are chock-full of asbestos and other naturally occurring carcinogens.
Furthermore, this is one of two places where I was nearly abducted by aliens (the other was on our southern border).

The quartzarenite rock is pitiful and slimy - akin to climbing a stalagmite, but without the good friction.
The weather is truly a heartache.
The sheepherders are the orneriest bunch of foul cusses you could ever come across, and they travel the area in packs.
Its location is in the heart of Nowhereville, and their emergency services suck!
I've witnessed grown, educated men running naked across the hardpan, screaming and beating their chest, filled to the brim with "desert madness".

If you dare venture to this gem, I mean hell-hole, keep in mind the following:
James Garretts, IBEX guidebook: Read it and bring it - a superb guide with excellent ethics, history and side-notes (don't know James, but have used his guidebook, and it is a dandy!).
Stay on designated trails/roads; pack out all of your trash; do not drive across the "dead lakebed".
May the Gawds be with you.

By Spinalflow
From: Sugarhouse , Utah
Sep 14, 2007

Not as bad as some may make it sound that is if you love to get crazy.

Aliens, 60mph sand storms and FREAKS.

Hell is merely a perception my friends!

Don't miss the sand dune jumping behind the mining operation SW across the pan!

By the way if anyone finds my Icarus Kiteboarding hat. I seemed to have lost it in a Discovering Morals Training session. Damn aliens.....

Spring / Fall are the best times not just a bouldering location.

By D. Durrant
From: Utah, USA
Nov 27, 2007

While hiking around looking for possible new lines I noticed a lot of new bolts and anchors, especially south of the syringe. I would like to contribute to the progress but don't want to step on any toes. Is there somebody who knows the current (Nov. 07) happenings? Looks like loads of unclimbed rock.

By James Garrett
Jan 5, 2008

Love to do some of your routes D Durrant....just let me know where they are or posting them here would be cool....you are correct, lots of unclimbed rock, and 7 years after the guidebook hasn't even made an effect....though probably double the amount of routes in that area these days....so much for the secret area credo held by some?

By James Garrett
Jan 8, 2008

I think the point was that rarely does "letting the cat out of the bag" really make much of a difference...at least it didn't at Ibex.

By Eckhard
From: Denver, CO
Apr 18, 2009

James bravo on the book! Accurate, really easy to use w/ interesting background info. this place is a gem if the winds don't take you at night. It also seemed a bit sand bagged, fyi, but worth it!

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 19, 2010

The sign seems to be missing at the turnoff from Hwy 6, but the road is pretty obvious (first left after the roadcut if you're coming from Delta) and there are cairns at both the Hwy 6 turnofff and at the turn to get over to the main area.

By ZachBradford
May 13, 2011

Ibex may have the most frictionless rock on the planet.

I got some help from the perfect send shoe for Ibex: Muira VS resoled with 5.10 stealth rubber.

By Tim Hadfield
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Apr 14, 2012

Just getting back from my first (of many) trips to Ibex. Amazing place. I would highly recommend James Garrett's new West Desert Guidebook. Great information, easy to follow directions, and tons of newly published routes. And if you need more info, maybe you'll run into him out there.... we did. Thanks for all your great suggestions, James.

By Jon Marek
From: SLC
Apr 20, 2013

People coming to Ibex for the boulders should know that unless you are a SOLID v7 or stronger climber you will likely be disappointed with the established problems. That said, there are a number of extremely classic v7-11 problems on just the Red Moster, Thing 1, and Thing 2.

By tenesmus
Apr 22, 2013

I couldn't disagree more. There are plenty of problems under v4 that are super fun. The cow bolder alone has at least 8 problems under v3. And if you aren't bouldering that hard, just go climb routes...

Better yet, its way too far to drive. And its always windy. And sandy. Super sandy! Too hot too.

By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
May 12, 2013

Just got back from Ibex. While there, I found a long sling and 2 locking biners on a boulder next the the corral crag, near Ewe.F.O....I also found a NOLS water bottle on the hardpan, with a small racking biner attached to it and a cool cheetah sticker (c'mon guys, leave no trace).

However, my digital camera fell out of my pocket while i was rappelling quartermoon, I think it is on the grassy ledge up there in the middle of the climb. It's not that nice a camera, but it is waterproof and I don't really have a ton of money to replace it. I'd really like the pictures that are on it. It's a blue fuji. If you find it, text or call me at (eight 4 five) seven oh five-92 zero seven.

Maybe someone finds my camera? Maybe someone lost their slings?

-Eric

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 17, 2013

I've never touched a V7 and I've spent over a week bouldering at Ibex, having a blast the whole time. Maybe walk past the Red Monster?
Tenesmus' comment was tongue in cheek. Finding choss at Ibex isn't that easy. As far as disagreeing with comments, I guess I'm gonna need to apply for a permit...

By tenesmus
May 17, 2013

Actually, I get to do what I wanna do.

By Emerson Takahashi
From: SLC, UT
Mar 15, 2014

If the only good boulders you're finding are v7 or harder, you're doing it wrong.

Definitely tons of quality problems from v0-5
The Cow Boulder as well as Captain Choss offer good easy climbs, driving out to Warm Point or Candyland also brings you to really great easy problems.

By meghan c.
From: san antonio, tx
May 20, 2014

I recently found a small metal vial containing another glass vial (now broken) full of very small white pills at the base of the 5.8 crack that goes up to Northern Corn... any idea as to what these are / where they came from?

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 27, 2014

Really disappointed at the amount of trash I found on my latest trip. Most of it seemed concentrated around the Corral Crags. This leads me to believe it is probably coming from climbers. PACK IT OUT FER CHRISSAKES! You are right next to your damn car!

By RPariser
Aug 25, 2014

This place had rad routes and is full is strange surprises. A tip on getting there:

If there has been rain you will not be able to cross the "dry lake bed" because there will be a lake in your way, as there was for us. Heading West on Hwy 50, if you take your next left rather than the one described in the MP directions (it is maybe a mile more down the road) you will be on another dirt road that will take you right up to the main crag without having to cross the lake. Just drive straight down the road until it ends in a fork (about 2 miles) and go left. When you turn the corner around the cliff the crag will be on your right. Camp wherever it is dry and flat and bring plenty of water!