Ian's Route is located between Alexi's Climb and Red Eclipse and shares anchors with Red Eclipse. The climb starts in the corner/crack formed by semi-detached pillar on the left and the face on the right. Bouldery opening moves take you past the first couple of bolts, past the top of the Alexi pillar, and onto a fun arete where the climbing becomes significantly easier. Continue up and right to the Red Eclipse anchors. It is a fun route; worth doing if you are in the area. Harder variations are possible.
This is "Ian's Route" FA: Pat & Azenda Thompson, fall 2002. FA party thought it checked in at 5.7, but it may a bit harder as your reported grade suggests.
By Steve Marr From: Colorado Springs, CO Jan 27, 2003
5.7 is probably a pretty accurate assessment of the route. I was trying hard not to reach over and use holds on the Alexi's Route pinnacle. Harder variations are possible if you stay right of the bolt line. Still a fun lead, however you do it! Enjoy and thanks for the info.
By Larry Shaw Jul 17, 2004 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Felt in the .7 range, watch out for loose rock at the top.
By Ray Lovestead From: Boulder, CO Mar 9, 2008 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Super fun, rare, fist-sized crack climb. Definitely 5.7. Called "Ian's Climb" in the Shelf Road Rock book.
By Steve Knapp From: Highlands Ranch, CO Nov 22, 2008 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b
Nice fun crack just right of super easy Alexi's route. Crux is near the second bolt, but the holds are all there. Agree that it's a touch harder than 5.7 at the crux. Also a bit harder than 5.7 if you stay on the face/arete at the last bolt instead of moving left near the Alexi's route anchor. This is a good route to use to setup a top rop for Red Eclipse or Solar Eclipse (which we did and enjoyed profusely).
Probably the best of the four or so routes nearby.
By Baumer From: Boulder, CO Oct 29, 2013 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
This can be led on gear if you're so inclined. It's no harder (probably easier) than Crynoid Corner, so I'd say 5.7 is the correct rating.
By jamesm From: Canon City, Co Apr 21, 2014 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
I personally love this little area. It's tucked up out of the wind and is a great spot to bring a bunch of friends, ranging from pro climbers to noobs. This 5.7 is a great push for new climbers liking big cracks after they have warmed up on the 5.5 to the left, and for you pros there is a lot of 5.9s and harder to the right. Ohhh, about 1/4 of the way up, look for the big piece of fossilized wood as a main handhold. It's kinda cool.