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Cactus Cliff
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Affluenza S 
Afterburner S 
Agave S 
Alexi's Climb S 
Alignment, The S 
Almost French S 
Almost Gothic S 
Amiga S 
Are You Experiential? S 
Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 
Axis of Evil S 
Banana Split S 
Barbed Wire Love S 
Beach Ball S 
Beef Cake Formula S 
Bionic Minnow S 
Black Slabbeth S 
Blackman's Burden S 
Blade Runner S 
Blarney Stone, The S 
Blond Princes S 
Bombodido S 
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 
Bur-Har-Bur S 
Cactus Cliff Addict S 
Candy for Big Kids S 
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 
Cellulite District T,TR 
Centurion Enigma S 
Cheeseburger In Paradise S 
Child's Play S 
Chompin' at the Cholla S 
Christmas Tree S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Cobra S 
Commitment S 
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 
Crimpson Candy S 
Critic's Choice S 
Cro-Magnum S 
Crynoid Corner S 
Cure For The Common Crimp S 
Da Fly S 
Dances with Cholla S 
Dereliction Affliction S 
Dihedrus S 
Divinity School S 
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 
Early Bird S 
Escalando S 
Et Tu, Brutus S 
Fantasia S 
Fast Food Nation S 
Fishisms T 
Flight of the Phoenix S 
French Are Here, The S 
Fully Equipped S 
Funkdemental S 
Gabby S 
Glass Babies S 
Glue Slippage S 
Good Red Road, The S 
Gravitations S 
Great Expectations S 
Hair Trigger S 
Half Breed S 
Hero Driver S 
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 
High Heeled Tittty Twister S 
Hot Beach S 
Hurricane Hinzi S 
I Claudius S 
I Lean S 
I'm Having A Vision S 
Ian's Climb S 
Illegal Smile S 
Impulsive Hands S 
Institutional Meat S 
Jamuary S 
Joy of Cholla, The S 
Jumpin' the Gun S 
Just Thesenga It S 
Kalahari Sidewinder S 
Killer Toupee, The T,S 
King Louie's Traverse S 
Kodachrome S 
La Temperatura de Shelf S 
LaCholla Jackson S 
Lats Don't Have Feelings S 
Legend on the Fall S 
Leisure Class S 
Manly Bulges S 
Midget Toss S 
Misalignment S 
Morning Joe S 
Muscle Beach S 
New Ethics S 
New World Order S 
Ol' 47 S 
Oscar de la Cholla S 
Out There Take Anything S 
Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 
Part Muffalo S 
Pick Pocket S 
Politically Incorrect S 
Poquito Mas S 
Puff Daddy S 
Purple Corner T 
Quarterback S 
Quasi Quasar S 
Raven, The S 
Reach Around, The S 
Red Eclipse S 
Red Giant T 
Redman's Burden S 
Relampago S 
Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 
Risky Business S 
Shelf Pride S 
Short Man's Burden S 
Six More Bottles of Basco S 
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 
Slicer S 
Solar Eclipse S 
Spray Lord S 
Squeeze the Moment S 
Stand, The S 
Super Suka S 
Third Stage S 
Three-Quarter Ton S 
Thumbs Up S 
Tits Up S 
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat S 
Total Recount S 
Totally Blonde S 
Turkey's Bleak T 
Two For One S 
Under A Blood Red Wall S 
Unknown S 
Usual Suspects, The S 
Utter To A Scream S 
Wadsworth Boulevard S 
White Punks on Pockets S 
Whiteman's Burden S 
Working Man S 
World Peace S 
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine S 

Ian's Climb 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pat and Azenda Thompson, 2002
Page Views: 1,911
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Dec 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (99)
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Making the final moves on Ian's Climb. March 2011.

Description 

Ian's Route is located between Alexi's Climb and Red Eclipse and shares anchors with Red Eclipse. The climb starts in the corner/crack formed by semi-detached pillar on the left and the face on the right. Bouldery opening moves take you past the first couple of bolts, past the top of the Alexi pillar, and onto a fun arete where the climbing becomes significantly easier. Continue up and right to the Red Eclipse anchors. It is a fun route; worth doing if you are in the area. Harder variations are possible.

Protection 

Seven bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Ian's Climb Slideshow Add Photo
Cactus Cliff - Right (1).  The Price is Right is n...
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1). The Price is Right is n...
Erik Marr top roping Ian's Route.
Erik Marr top roping Ian's Route.
Approaching the ledge at the top of Alexi's Route....
Approaching the ledge at the top of Alexi's Route....
Dave leading Ian's.  Photo by Carl Brockhoff.
Dave leading Ian's. Photo by Carl Brockhoff.
Sarah leading.
Sarah leading.
Tanya leading Ian's.
Tanya leading Ian's.
Sarah on Ian's.
Sarah on Ian's.
Up to his forehead in the crack - I like it! Cody ...
Up to his forehead in the crack - I like it! Cody ...
About to start the upper crux.
About to start the upper crux.
Staci starting.
Staci starting.

Comments on Ian's Climb Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jan 27, 2003

This is "Ian's Route" FA: Pat & Azenda Thompson, fall 2002. FA party thought it checked in at 5.7, but it may a bit harder as your reported grade suggests.
By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2003

5.7 is probably a pretty accurate assessment of the route. I was trying hard not to reach over and use holds on the Alexi's Route pinnacle. Harder variations are possible if you stay right of the bolt line. Still a fun lead, however you do it! Enjoy and thanks for the info.
By Larry Shaw
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Felt in the .7 range, watch out for loose rock at the top.
By Ray Lovestead
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 9, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super fun, rare, fist-sized crack climb. Definitely 5.7. Called "Ian's Climb" in the Shelf Road Rock book.
By Steve Knapp
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Nov 22, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice fun crack just right of super easy Alexi's route. Crux is near the second bolt, but the holds are all there. Agree that it's a touch harder than 5.7 at the crux. Also a bit harder than 5.7 if you stay on the face/arete at the last bolt instead of moving left near the Alexi's route anchor. This is a good route to use to setup a top rop for Red Eclipse or Solar Eclipse (which we did and enjoyed profusely).
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
May 11, 2010

Probably the best of the four or so routes nearby.
By Baumer
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This can be led on gear if you're so inclined. It's no harder (probably easier) than Crynoid Corner, so I'd say 5.7 is the correct rating.
By jamesm
From: Canon City, Co
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I personally love this little area. It's tucked up out of the wind and is a great spot to bring a bunch of friends, ranging from pro climbers to noobs. This 5.7 is a great push for new climbers liking big cracks after they have warmed up on the 5.5 to the left, and for you pros there is a lot of 5.9s and harder to the right. Ohhh, about 1/4 of the way up, look for the big piece of fossilized wood as a main handhold. It's kinda cool.