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Ian Murders Another Route T 
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Ian Murders Another Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 491
Submitted By: pat thompson on Dec 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: The route.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start in the obvious, nappy chimney to the obvious ledge. Climb left of ledge past a couple of good gear placements. Clip bolt on left-facing corner and climb just right of previous route to a small ledge and a small crack. Place good gear in crack and step right on to a down-sloping ledge. From this point you have several options. I thought the most fun option was stepping right into the chimney and stemming across the chimney using the obvious mondo (right) and crimper (left) holds while clipping the 4 closely placed bolts on the face right of the chimney 5.8 and moving right to the anchor. One can also climb the arete proper from the down sloping ledge via pretty cool moves at 5.9. One can also climb a still dirty corner from the down sloping ledge at about 5.5. These variations all end at the chain anchor.

Location 

Start 10 feet right of previous route. Same start as Redrum [#186] in the Haas and Schneider guide.

Protection 

5 bolts and gear to a # 1 Camalot.


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Below the arete moves.
Below the arete moves.

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By pat thompson
From: superior
Dec 24, 2010

Sorry, kind of mixed up. The bolts off the down-sloping ledge are to the left of the arete/chimney and you move left to the chain anchor.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jan 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is somewhat of a squeeze job in that it changes the character of Redrum to the right. The moves on the arete are fun though and climbing the arete direct felt no harder than 5.8. A 0.4 and 0.3 C4 seem adequate to protect the moves that are not bolted. This is a minor point, but it would have been nice if the anchor chains were painted to match the rock. Even at a place that is grid bolted like Table, these anchors stick out like a sore thumb.