Begin on horizontals; work up and left to the overhanging crack/corner; pull three overlaps to the top; rap from P2 belay on 'Chimney Route'
15 meters left of 'Mescaline Daydream'
Small to medium cams
From: Columbia, SC
Feb 14, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
This has a campus start on good horizontals leading up to some creative footwork out before getting situated in the horizontals. This is not a finger crack, this is a pumpy horizontal haul that takes big gear. Serious potential for ground fall in certain places. Great climb but packs a punch. Rack: assortment of finger sizes, .5-#3, doubles on .75 C4's, some nuts and runners.
P2 of Chimney route anchor is currently 2 rusty pitons and a small chockstone w/ black webbing and rap rings. (2/13/2011)
|By s f|
Feb 14, 2011
I agree that there is a spot or two of pumpy "no fall" territory over a bad landing. However, this is a cool climb, and there is some key protection that can minimize the risk.
The webbing at the top is new as of fall '10, but the pins and chockstone are definitely old school. I back it up until the final rap.
From: Red River Gorge
Jan 28, 2013
This climb is so fun, a total thug haul. I didn't find it to be dangerous. A bomber cam protects the opening moves with an attentive belayer, and the next sequence where ground fall is possible is probably the easiest sequence in the meat of the route. Double ropes would allow you to have G-rated gear on the traverse without fear of rope drag.