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Routes in Devil's Advocate
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Blue Baboon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Crankin' stein T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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I Want My Mummy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kamidana S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Knots-feratu T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lich-an't Recommend It T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Lichen-thrope T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Pink Hyena aka Tuck n' Cover S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Purple Serpent S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Tony Bubb, Patty Johnson, 6/24/2006 |
| Page Views: | 732 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 26, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
A decent route that will improve with cleaning. The moves are good, particularly in the steep jamcrack down low. Although most of the crumble in the crack was removed while on lead on the FA some probably remains. Were it not for that, it would be a 2-star route, which it would become with additional travel.
Climb up the right-leaning crack through a pod/bulge and get established above- jam for a few meters and pull up onto a wide crack or flake. Continue to the left-summit of the rock.
Climb up the right-leaning crack through a pod/bulge and get established above- jam for a few meters and pull up onto a wide crack or flake. Continue to the left-summit of the rock.
Location
The extreme West end of the Devil's Advocate is characterized by a massive overhang, which is cleaved by a huge chimney, parting it into North and South halves. On the North half (left) there is a pedestal below a pod on the rock, with an obvious crack rising up through a bulge out of it, widening as it goes. Above this, some large flakes and huecos lead to the top of the wall. This is the route 'I Want My Mummy.'
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