I wanna go home
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The P2 slab/arete
N1 is a 2 pitch line on the far left side of Lost Boys. The first pitch is typical "juggy" exit 38 climbing, while the second is quite slabby.
P1. Begin up a small face, climbing over a small lip about 15 feet up. This felt like the crux to me; non-descript climbing continues to the anchor.
P2. The second pitch starts up a steep, blank face before pulling around a roof and the corner above. This felt more exposed than I expected from the ground; make use of the arete and think things through-- a short but unprotected fall on the anchor/ledge is a possibility. After turning the corner, make a step over a small lip and onto a slab, using the arete as you ascend. Near the top, fight the urge to stay with the arete when the bolt line pulls you right.
This is a 35m line, and both pitches can easily led as one with no drag.
With a single rope, rap the route.
~12 draws will get you to the 2nd pitch anchor
BETA PHOTO: Rope on P1/2 of I wanna go home. 2ne line in back ...
By Griffin Dittmar
Sep 11, 2015
Very fun technical climb! Very slabby. The top Pitch pushes 10a with some small crimps. Both pitches can be done as one if you have a long enough rope (60 is pushing it and 70 is plenty)
Sep 28, 2015
Fun climb. First pitch has a neat flow to it. A lot of push/pull. The second pitch start is heady. The slab on the top of pitch two is a debris flow zone from above, so it was dirty when I climbed it yesterday, but with the arete, it is easy enough to clean the holds as you go.
By Madelynn Scherrer
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 4, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I thought it was a great climb! Fun lead on the first pitch, the second pitch has a funky start, but once you get the start, the second pitch becomes a fun slabby climb.