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Der Sudwand Buttress  
I Thought You Had It? 

I Thought You Had It? 

5.10- R

   
408 page views
Good page? (1 like)   

Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
FA: Cory Fleagle / Thom Englebach (9/12/10)
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Submitted By: Cor on Sep 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: The route and other towers.

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Description 

The 1st pitch climbs short, broken, right-facing dihedrals and face.

Pitch 2 goes up right-facing dihedrals to the ledge.

Pitch 3 goes up the runout face, then up the ramp towards the summit.


Location 

Zig zag up the gully and head towards the left face of the formation which has a obvious, right-facing corner up in the middle of the wall.

Walk off the top and go left (walker's left) toward the west/southwest and gain a grassy gully for the descent. Go down this until you are at a small tower (that was right beside you when you started the climb). Go around it on the low side, and traverse back to the base of your climb. Go back down the long awful gully.

Another option that I have not explored would be to take everything with you, and at the top descend the slope to the north and walk out that way.


Protection 

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.



Photos of I Thought You Had It? Slideshow Add Photo
Fire out east.

Fire out east.

Thom on pitch 2.

Thom on pitch 2.

Cor approaching the base.

Cor approaching the base.

Cor starting up Pitch 1.

Cor starting up Pitch 1.

Another fire, northwest of Estes Park, flared up while we were on the summit plateau.

Another fire, northwest of Estes Park, flared up w...


Comments on I Thought You Had It? Add Comment
Show which comments
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Sep 18, 2010

Nice one, boys! I've done a few pitches of that years ago. We never topped it out though, I remember some pretty fun climbing.
That fire looks more like the Loveland fire?

By Jason Killgore
From: boulder, co
Sep 21, 2010

Funny, some friends and I climbed "Fire Tower" the day before you guys. Our route climbed the prow of the buttress in 4 pitches, 5.9. Pretty nice rock.

By Cor
Sep 27, 2010

Thanks, Justin, that is the Loveland blaze.
I changed the picture text.

By Scott Bennett
From: Colorado, etc
May 18, 2012

My friend Cody and I headed up there yesterday, unaware of any of the routes on "Fire Tower". I think we basically followed this route, doing the same first pitch to the ledge, but then climbed that awesome looking splitter on the left wall of the dihedral.

Really classic finger and thin-hand crack, probably 12-, on great rock. Definitely recommended. We also rapped the route (lazy, I know). We had two ropes, but I bet you could do it with a single 70.