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This is the long "clean looking" dihedral left of a long bolted face climb (Fogline). Approach as you would for Crooked Cross, but traverse down canyon to the east face (three large dihedrals). This route was given an R rating by Hubbel, but seemed to protect well, although small. Scramble up some rotten rock to a ledge at the start of the dihedral. Jam, lieback, stem, and chimney up to the wide low angle finish. Either go straight up to the tree and walk off, or traverse left to some chains on the arete. A 60 meter rope will just get you back to the ground from the chains. This is a fairly sustained route, with plenty of 5.8 moves that, with a little more traffic would deserve a few stars. Until then, bring your nut tool to 'excavate' placements.
Lots of smaller stuff, and at least one RP placement. Rack up to a #2 Camalot.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2004
This route is a drainage and doesn't dry out quickly. I backed off this lead yesterday after realizing the crack was wet and I had already used my two smallest pieces. I agree about the small pro on this one, take lots! This did not appear a casual 5.8 ...
Sep 13, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This route would probably be 4 stars if totally cleaned. The only detraction was extensive lichen and dirt. I stemmed the entire thing, mostly to try to keep my feet clean. Beautiful dihedral geometry.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
The bottom 5 meters are a somewhat dirty solo. The rest of the climb is clean, solid and fun!